Author Topic: bolt list  (Read 20754 times)

Offline racerdad

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bolt list
« on: October 06, 2011, 09:15:41 am »
i was hoping some one out there had a list of bolts used on legends car. i wont to fill my bolt bins. thanks cody




Offline IraceLegends77

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2011, 10:23:52 am »
I'm trying to get a friend of mine that sales nuts and bolts to put together a Legends travel kit. Anyone else think that they might be interested in this idea?
Scott Wilkerson #77   Vision Graphix Racing


Offline VMS Motorsports

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2011, 11:03:19 pm »
I replace my bolts every year.
Keep last years for spares in the truck.
Probably costs me $40 at the local Fleet Farm store
JIM BUCHER
VMS Motorsports
Worldwide Legends Parts Supplier
(262)255-7100
http://www.vmsmotorsports.com/

Offline racerdad

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #3 on: October 07, 2011, 12:42:41 am »
if you replace your bolts every year do you have a list of bolts you need. thanks cody

Hoopy_boy

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #4 on: October 07, 2011, 01:52:28 am »
 On our old chassis we stocked up on extra spacers.  We went with the longest bolt on the chassis, for replacement of all of our bolts. Knocked down the riff raff between the wife and I in the pits during repair or replacement.  If we ran a heat race, finished in the top 3 we qualified for the trophy dash. If we encountered a ripped off front wheel and control arm assembly in the trophy dash... many a night we were limited in repair time to make the feature line-up so repairs had to go quick. Having all the bolts the same length and a spacer selection we took up the excess length with a spacer on the outside (towards the bolt head) to make up the difference. Lol.. no argueing about her giving me the wrong size bolt after that !. We kept extra spacers on a wire ring arranged per size. Nice when you break a front upper rear control arm mount bolt and can fix it in a snap without fussing or trying to remember what length of bolt went where for quick replacement. We also had our best luck with grade 5 bolts instead of grade 8 bolts. Grade 8 bolts sheered off where a grade 5 would streatch and take more abuse.... and that my friend is why I don't have a "list" of bolts to contribute to this thread...

 ~ Gimpster ~


Offline racerdad

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2011, 09:05:57 am »
so hoopy by are you saying the bolts in your car are grade 5 or your extra bolts are grade 5? thanks cody


Offline slack11

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2011, 09:36:37 am »
I was wondering the same thing this summer.  Why does everyone use Grade 8 bolts in these cars?  For most suspension parts, we are holding an aluminum rod in place with a Grade 8 bolt?  The first piece to fail is gonna be the aluminum regardless, so why spend the extra money on Grade 8 stuff?  Also, Grade 5 will bend and deflect under stress, where Grade 8 is a much more brittle material due to it's higher strength. 
 
Is there something that I am missing?

Offline thunder938

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2011, 11:32:56 am »
Dont over think this, bolts break.  The front bolt of the right rear trailing arm breaks alot.  When I ran grade 5 I would change that bolt every oil change
Dave


Hoopy_boy

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2011, 01:06:18 pm »
 She mentioned to me that we carried two longer spare bolts for the inner lower control arm mounts, otherwise all others were the same length with spare spacers to add as I mentioned above. I don't understand a few things they did when they designed these cars. Number one was the grade 8 bolts. Look at your bolts as they were licorice sticks. Grade 5 is simular to a fresh stick out of the bag, nice and flexable and will not bust off if you wack the dashboard of your car with it. On the other hand, grade 8 is like a piece of licorice laying on your dash for a month. Pick it up and it is hard and brittle, smack the dash with it and it will shatter. I never understood, when I started helping our dealer with these cars back in around '02, why they installed suspention components at USLC with grade 8 bolts.. and coarse threads on top of it all. None of the bolts are safety wired eather as the bolts on my sprint car chassis were (fine thread and safety wired) for true dirt racing. Grade 8 bolts are brittle but their application is best used for situations requiring consistant torque. Like a head bolt application that has no side forces applied to it, so sheering is not an issue with the assistance of hollow dowells. Grade 5 bolts are the way to go for suspention mount components because they flex and give. During a normal season, a bolt change is in order (simular to thunder's comment) depending how many races you run a season. We have 4 tracks that constantly race Legends on a weekly basis with 4 or 5 more that run specials for us every now and then. I like changing out bolts every 6 to 8 races.
 Another issue to watch is cage mount welds. On dirt, some tracks being rather rough, you get more chassis flex over and over, than tracks which these cars were designed for (asphalt). Every couple weeks around here, I take the body off and check every weld.. most cracks are found at the A pillar base mount. That is a whole nuther topic though... I am on chassis number 4 over the years and it is normal policy  that when we get a chassis, all grade 8 bolts get removed from the suspention and replaced with grade 5 bolts when we strip the chassis and go through it. Sux hitting a chuck hole on dirt at around 70 plus mph and sheer a bolt. Been there done that.... You guys, all this racin talk has me anticipating beating this colon cancer and goin racin again.. lol that's what I get for signing back into this site !! anticipation

~ Gimpster ~ 

Offline JGRacing

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #9 on: October 07, 2011, 02:44:17 pm »
I always just went with grade eight under the theory that it would be the strongest, but you all have me ready to go replace all of the bolts on my car that has been sitting in the garage all summer.   :)  Lots of good points on this subject.


Offline NJRacer510

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2011, 04:45:25 pm »
Search on Facebook for Eugene Drew, he drives the #31 car at Bethel Speedway and Wall. He has a really nice kit which has every nut and bolt you need for a legends car with a case. I believe his racing page on facebook is fierce eagle motorsports

Todd
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www.TEAM510RACING.com

Hoopy_boy

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #11 on: October 07, 2011, 09:03:42 pm »
 Is that the place that sends you 4 sticks of 1/2" ready-rod and 2 pounds of nuts in a brown bag ?? (hacksaw blade is an extra buck 295 plus shipping)

hehehe

~ Gimpster ~

Offline VMS Motorsports

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #12 on: October 07, 2011, 09:10:00 pm »
I'm a grade 5 guy also. just like a good defense, better to bend then break.
No, I do not have a list. I just go fill up a bag with an assortment and the lady weighs it and charges me 95 cents a pound.
JIM BUCHER
VMS Motorsports
Worldwide Legends Parts Supplier
(262)255-7100
http://www.vmsmotorsports.com/

Offline Winterracing

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #13 on: October 07, 2011, 10:44:52 pm »
Tractor supply or fastenal is normally a good place to go.  I never gave the grade 8 vs grade 5 a thought i've always just run grade 8. looks like i'll be changing this winter

Dan
www.winterracing.net

Offline racerdad

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Re: bolt list
« Reply #14 on: October 07, 2011, 11:58:04 pm »
im not saying allyou are wrong but i know this is the first time i have ever heard some one say grade 5 and race car in the same sentance. i was a machanic for about 9 years and raced or been around race cars all my life and its always been grade 8.
thanks cody