Changing spindles

[MegaMang]

I'm going to have to change one of my spindles.  On one side I have an aluminum spindle, on the other a steel spindle.

Is there anything I should be aware of when changing spindles?

Mike

[thunder938]

Hello, Remember that the Aluminum Spindles need the larger upper ball joint.  Due to this you may need to change the upper "thunder" bars.  Short part of the upper A arm.  My car had the Aluminum spindles, but it still had the small joints :/ found this out when I bent them.  The larger ball joints have a shorter threaded shaft which is need with the Aluminum spindles to install them right...

If you dont know the larger ball joints are the same as the lower ones.  If they are smaller than the lowers you need to change them...

Dave

[MegaMang]

Good tip, thanks.  One large ball joint coming up!

Thanks,
Mike

[elimn8u_43]

Pick up the aluminum spindle kit from your dealer it will have everything that you need. Also when installing the steering arm make sure to put the bevelled side against the aluminum. If you don't do this you WILL break a spindle. Some of the older steering arms are not bevelled so make sure that yours are.

Geoff

[MegaMang]

Yet another good tip.  Going out to the garage to check.

Thanks,
Mike the not so crazy now Canuck!

[Tom Cole]

I noticed the bevel on my new spindle's steering arm, but I didn't remember if the other one was beveled or not.  I am going to check and chamfer it if necessary.

[speedyracing11]

Can you just put the kit on without doing caster and camber.I mean just measuring center to center on the upper a arm and just put the new balljoint kit on and put the spindle on.Or do you have to do the whole front end all over.

[elimn8u_43]

You should be close, but I would recommend going over the whole thing. I go over mine weekly just to make sure that everything is where I want it and nothing is bent or loose.

Geoff

[speedyracing11]

With the new spindles it looks like you can add acerman.Would you use it on asphalt.

[elimn8u_43]

I do  . I use all the way forward on right and all the way back on the left. This works well for me.

Geoff

[MegaMang]

You can add who?  What the heck is that?  Explain please for virtual newbies like me.  Please?

Thanks guys,
Mike

[justfreaky]

"Ackerman Steering  Geometry is  where the inside front wheel is steered in a sharper arc than the outside front in order to eliminate tire scrub at the inside wheel during cornering".

"Increased Ackerman decreases cornering understeer. Ackerman steers the left front wheel more, and thus helps point the car".

"The left front simply steers more and helps point and stabilize the car".

 Those are some quotes from "Dwarf Car Technology" by Steve Smith. Pretty basic explanation. BUY THE BOOK!
You can find this info in most any book that deals with front suspension. The Steve Smith book explains it in terms that relate to our cars, and is also explained in terms that most anyone can understand. Any book dealing with front suspension will have info on Ackerman Steering. Most of the books that you have added to your list of reference materials explain it in different degrees of difficulty. Road courses are going to require more work (math), than circle track.
 Basically, it has to do with how much toe out that occurs during cornering.
Is it overly important  to the new, or first time driver? Probably Not. Will it help you go faster?  Will it help increase lap times? Save wear and tear on equipment? MOST LIKELY. Thing is; you can do all the math to get in the ball park; but it will ultimately come down to driver experience and style; experimentation; and the stop watch.

 Hope that helps.

Email me if you have more questions. I'll try to explain what I can.


Steve

[MegaMang]

Super explanations.  Yes I know I have to buy the book.  I will.  First I have to spend money on the car, then the books. 

Thanks Steve,

Mike

[Tom Cole]

I do  . I use all the way forward on right and all the way back on the left. This works well for me.

Geoff

Me too.  On larger tracks, my left  is in the middle.

What we are talking about is where the tie rod is mounted in the sloted hole of the steering arm on the spindle.  When you mount the tie rod all the way to the end of the steering arm (forward), it requires more input at the steering wheel to turn the spindle 5° than if you have the tie rod mounted to the back of the slotted hole.

By mounting the RS all the way forward and the LS all the way back, the LS will turn more rapidly than the RS, which is what you want becacuse the arc of the circle the inside wheel travels around the track is less than the arc that the outside wheel has to travel.

If you really want to blow your mind, start thinking how bump-steer effects this. 

[MegaMang]

Oooh!  Erg!  Thought about the bump steer effect, blew a brain cell and had to reboot.  Must be MicroSof* brain.

Nice explanation on how to turn theory into practice.  Thanks Tom.  Much clearer now.  Funny, I noticed the slotted hole, knew it was there for adjustments, but hadn't pieced together the geometry yet.  It is all coming together now.  As for the bump steer, a couple of carefully placed spacer washers ought to take care of that, right?!  Now to figure out where that careful placement is...

Mike