OK, being a karter myself for 30 years before I put my youngest into Bando bandits, (then Legend, now late model)I'll try to help. Bando's are way different from karts---front end like a kart, rear end closer to late model, so somewhere in the middle, the car gets confused, and you have to treat each end differently. It would be helpful if we knew size track, banking, oval or road course, restricted or not, etc. Also, a Bando gets very sensitive to changes ONCE YOU GET THE CAR PROPERLY BALANCED. What I mean is that a 1/4 turn on each spanner can change cross 1% on a balanced car, but it make take a full turn on each spanner to get 1% if the car is not balanced. You have to get the car to that "teter totter" point for adustments to really make a difference at the track. Having said that, you have to start with proper cross, stagger, psi, ride heights (didn't have to deal with these in karts) rear end squared, rear end offset, lower a arm lead and/or lag, caster, camber, ackerman and front wheel track. about the most left side wieght you can legally get is 52% and nose weight is critical (I like 44% nose for 1/4 mile ovals and smaller, and r/c's; 48% works well on 3/8 mile when you run restrictor plates. Post this info and it will be easier to help. BUT, you'll find that getting a Bando fast is not as easy as it was in karts, and once you do, you prolly will keep that hard earned and expensive info to yourself too.
Now, to anwer your basic question. IF the car is balanced, you can tighten the car by going down on the LR spanner 1/4 turn and up on the RR a 1/4. Opposite to loosen car. Move both, because if you don't, you can get into chain issues and rear axle squareness issues. Remember, these axles travel up and down, AS WELL AS FORE AND AFT since it is a four link design. ANgles are everything!!!! You can also add 2 lbs psi to LR to tighten car up off corner, opposite to free it up off corner.
If problem is entering corner, work at front; if exiting corner, work at rear; center of corner, everything is open for adustment, but normally cross, caster or camber. Again, RIDE HEIGHTS ARE KEY!!!! As with karting, blueprinting and flowing carbs and dyno tuning engine is MASSIVE IMPORTANT!!! And Tire program is still king!! No soaking, but must religiously clean after each race and keep in controlled environment. Tires must be cut, but different cuts for different type racing (roadcourse, oval, restrictor plate, etc.)
Most importantly, NEVER listen to 600 racing when it comes to a Bando set-up. Sorry, but nobody in that shop has ever seriously raced one of these cars at different tracks, so they don't have any REAL TIME experience. THey are helpful, just not "on top of the game" so to speak.
Welcome to racing in Area 51
Mike Hudson
Alpha Carbs