High oil temps

[faster12]

Hey guys once again I'm new to legends racing. Last weekend I noticed my cars temp got up over 300*  I started to pull in but was running way to good so i stayed out and Finnish the race. The car has 2 oil coolers in  front of the engine and an external oil filter but the thing that's throwing me off is on the top end where I've seen most oil coolers ran theres a plug in the passenger side of the head and the drivers side has a bolt in it and the hose from the oil cooler runs to ports in the valve cover. Has anyone heard of a set up like this?  The car has new plug and fresh oil  it did sit for I would say well over a year before I purchased it what could be causing my high temps? I will try to post some pics but I'm in twenty nine stumps for the next few weeks with the marine corps so I'm stuck using my iPhone  and I can't get pics to upload.

[igotmylegend]

It sounds like someone plugged the top end off and then just dumped the oil back through the valve cover, I try not to give to much info on stuff as I'm I'am new to legend racing too. If that is the case you need to see why they did it that way.   

[VMS Motorsports]

Pictures would be great.
What are you using for oil?

[racerrad8]

The head is stock and has not been drilled for the head oiler. The return oil through the valve cover is not going to work very well, plus it is not legal.

You need to upgrade the cooling system to a better, legal system. There are many options on the market, so ask questions and pick the one that you feel is the best.

I offer one set-up, VMS, HSR, Buckeye Legends and dozens of others offer cooling kits. Talk to each one independently and make you decision based on the info you gather.

Randy - RPM

[faster12]

I'm using Valvoline 20/50 4T Stroke Full Synthetic oil.

[faster12]

It's a sealed engine so I'm guessing I'm going to have to send the engine to uslci to get the head drilled?  I would buy another oiling system to make my engine more reliable but if I have to send the engine off I might have to look at another option Untill I can afford that.

[TG01]

Amsoil is what I would choose.
As for drilling the head. If you tip the engine on its side with the cast in (bosses) facing down, you should be able to drill/tap these holes without getting the shavings into the system. If you are really nervous vacuume the holes out and double check them for shavings. Grease on the tap will also minimize the shavings from getting in there.
Just be very carefull to use a sharp drill that will hold the CENTER.

[dirkhenry3]

you can also take the front two valve cover bolts out and blow air through them to get the shavings out

[faster12]

Any idea as to what size tap I should use? And where could I order the lines from or should i just go to the hardware store and get barb fittings and use the rubber hoses that are already in place.  I wish I was home to take pics of the rest of my system I was on hsr website looking at there system but I don't know if it compatible with what I already have. I just don't want to spend unnecessary money but I also want to do it right. 

[TG01]

Usually there is no way you will be able to use anything bigger than a 1/8" npt tap and fitting for the head. The top end oiler kits are available at a few different suppliers but I like the VMS Motorsports one myself as I know him.
Perhaps a picture would be best though if you are unsure of what you have?

[faster12]

I called my brother today and got him to trace all the lines and here's what we came up with.
The line from the rear of the engine ( where the oil filter was) runs out the engine (high psi side) to the filter from there 2 the oil cooler then back around the engine to the rear and hooks beside the line out metioned above.

Then there's a line ran from the the front of the oil pan bellow the header to another cooler and from that cooler to the valve cover that I had pictured above. the hole on the rear of the oil pan is blocked off

I've done a little research and I'm thinking  that maybe the low pis port on the pan is not shimmed and that might be why my temps are so high. If I'm correct would it be best to route the low psi line from the pan to the cooler and then back to the rear of the pan and leave the other lines alone beside for taking the valve cover oiler off?
 
I hope all this makes since Its been a very very long day in the dessert and I'm dehydrated and having a hard time typing lol

[justfreaky]

Found this in the old threads, May help you out.
http://www.legendsracer.com/index.php?topic=318.0

Hope this helps

Steve

[Kr36]

This engine has two related but separate oil systems.  One for the filter and one for cooling.  The oil cooling system has a lower pressure and comes off the two ports at the bottom of the engine, oil pan area.  The oil filter is the high pressure side and comes off the back of the engine.  Oil coolers can be used on both systems...

From your description, it sound like someone used the low pressure side and "returned" the oil to the valve cover instead of the oil pan.  Does this sound about right?

A third item has been introduce called a top-end oiler.  This is separate form the two items previously described.  This setup takes oil off the front bottom of the engine and runs it up to the cam oil ports in the head.  In factory form, my 1250 has a plug on one cam and the other is removable (in the head)...  Check out VMS and other sites for pics of top-end oil systems.

There are also other oil systems that tie the two (high and low pressure) systems together at the oil filter adapter...  This requires certain adjustments and modifications...

As for the 300 degrees, I am trying to gather all sorts of oil information.  My post is in the Lubrication thread.  It appears that this temperature (300) occurs frequently.  Just make sure your coolers are not plugged up with mud, dirt, and other debris...

Charles

[faster12]

Yes the line runs from the front port of the oil pan thru the back oil cooler then to the valve cover. I have no idea if the pan is shimmed or not and I don't have a clue how I could tell.

[VMS Motorsports]

Instead of running the line to the valve cover, run it back to the pan, creating a closed loop from pan to oil cooler to pan. Then it wont matter if it was shimmed or not