Pulling Hard to the Left when Braking

[VMS Motorsports]

Do you still have your old proportioning valve?
If so, plumb it in to cut off the rear brakes to verify that it is indeed a front brake problem.
If your RR is not doing anything, you'll still pull, especially if the LR is adjusted out tight.
If you haven't flipped the springs, the rears will adjust themselves in or out over the course of a few races...I found that out the hard way last year.
You can have all the front brakes in the world, but if the rears aren't working, you aren't stopping.

[justfreaky]

If the caliper bracket were bent, you should be able to see that when you spin your hub.  You don't have enough hard braking on the pads to notice any odd pad wear at this point. You could plumb the proportioning valve to your left front and cut some pressure to the caliper.

Steve

[knoxracing]

Are the pads wearing evenly (flAT), usually the pads will wear at an angle if the bracket is not right? If you remove the front wheels and look down on the rotor is should be centered in the pad bracket,  it is typically the backing plate that gets tweeked, the new ones are universal for either side. I mentioned this early in these post, if the plate is not right is will pull for sure.

[Bigmil]

I will check the brackets tonight, I won't have time to get replacments before the race on Friday but matbe something will stand out.

Jim, I don't know what you mean by having the rear springs flipped.  I'm assuming you are talking about the brake adjusting springs.  Are you saying they should be on backwards?

I no longer have the old proportioning valve but may be able to borrow one to try out.

I'm praying it's the brackets.

[VMS Motorsports]

If the caliper bracket were bent, you should be able to see that when you spin your hub.  You don't have enough hard braking on the pads to notice any odd pad wear at this point. You could plumb the proportioning valve to your left front and cut some pressure to the caliper.

Steve

Thats just putting a band-aid on though Steve. Agree if a quick fix needed, but better to find the problem...
Just my opinion

[VMS Motorsports]

Yes. The springs have a 1/2" or so gap built into them so that you can adjust them easily. It also allows them to adjust themselves. If the gap is still open over the adjustment wheel, take the spring off and reverse it so that the gap is not over the adjuster. This will keep the rears from backing off

[Bigmil]

Thanks Jim, I will switch the springs tongiht!!

I agree my goal is to fix the problem without the bandaid fixing it.

I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

[Bigmil]

I just checked my records from last year and realized that the week before I noticed the brake problem I had a hard hit on the left front of the car.  The hit was bad enough to break the spindle and I'm thinking hard enough to bend the caliper moutning bracket.

Now I am really hoping it is the caliper mounting plate on the drivers side.  Now I just need to find one!!  Hopefully Toby Alrey has one or my local dealer.

I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

[Bigmil]

Just wanted to post an update.....

I replaced the caliper plates, caliper brackets and pads.......

The car still pulls to the left hard.

So, screw it, I am tried of wasting money and time fixing it, I am just going to learn how to drive it that way!

Sincerely,
Frustrated 

[01MRMTransAm]

Gerad, What kind of Caster split do you run in the car? Is it a large split from left to right?

[Micke68]

I was going to ask a similiar question. After that wreck did you check and reset the LF caster? It almost sounds like you have negative or zero caster in the LF. When you drive the car and without using the brake does the car want to "drift" ot turn to the left when you let go of the steering wheel?

Mick

[Bigmil]

I don't have a gauge to check my castor split.....A local guy set my car up this year with "his" setup.  But this happened last year with a different setup and this year.  Plus it happens when I am going 1 mph just as much as it does at 100mph.

The car drives perfect when I am not on the brakes.......no drifting or anything.

Gerad

[01MRMTransAm]

Gerad,
I ran a setup last year that had me at zero caster on the left front. It seemed to pull similarly to yours. Mine was actually more noticeable at lower speeds when I was going straight in the pits. On our track, you kind of arc into turn 1, so you have to turn and be on the brakes slightly at the same time, so it was hard to notice.

Just pull your driver side fender off real quick and give your spindle a look from directly above it. Caster is very easily seen. I mean as far as it being positive, negative, or dang close to zero. Let us know which ball joint is farther forward, or if they're pretty close to even. Try to eliminate it as a possibility,and even if it doesn't appear to be an issue, at least its getting one more step toward what it could be.

I've never noticed an issue with tracking one way or the other being caster related. That's more of a toe thing.