Replacing front bearings

[Winterracing]

I want to replace the front bearings, i got the outer one out no problem but just wasn't sure how to get the inside one out.  There is a black seal around the inside one and i didn't know if you just pulled the bearing out over it or took the seal off.

Thanks,
Dan
www.winterracing.net

[01MRMTransAm]

Leave the rotor on the spindle without the outside bearing. Then put the nut back on the spindle just threaded a few threads. Then grab the rotor with one hand on each side, pulling as straight as you can, and just hit the nut a couple times. The seal and inner bearing should pop out of the rotor real easy, then put the inner bearing back in the rotor and reinstall the seal with a hammer.

Hope that helps,
Justin

[Legends57x]

Ancient Mechanics Inner Wheel Bearing removal trick:

First remove spindle nut, retaining washer, and outer wheel bearing, leaving rotor on spindle.   Reinstall spindle nut and just yank hub/rotor assembly past nut and a majority of time both the inner wheel bearing along with the dust seal will come out.  If  it has been together for awhile, the seal may become damaged, but this dust seal is cheap and easy to replace.  Dust Seal Chicago Rawhide P/N 18962 available from local auto parts store.

Hope this helps! Mark

[Winterracing]

Alright thanks, just a couple more questions, what do you torque the 4 bolts attaching the brake plate to the spindle to and also the two bolts holding the calliper to the brake plate.  Also how do you recomend to pack the new bearings?

Thanks,
Dan
www.winterracing.net

[Legends57x]

Dan,

I've had no problem with just snugging all of the fasteners you mentioned good and hand tight with a wrench.  Be careful not to overtighten the bolts attaching the brake bracket to the spindle since you are going into aluminum. I would say no more than 180 in/lbs would do the trick.   

As far as repacking the bearings, you can do them the old fashioned way by put a glob of grease into your palm and then pushing the open side of the bearing into the grease repeatedly until you see grease come out the other side, making sure you go all the way around.  Or you can pick up a plastic wheel bearing repacking tool from your local auto parts store and just use your grease gun to repack.  Much easier and faster.  Also, I highly recommend you use Mobil 1 Sythetic grease(red in color) available at Fleet Farm or your local parts store.  I've used this grease on both my V-8 stuff and legends cars for many years with no problems.   BTW - Make sure you thoroughly clean the bearings first and then make sure they roll freely after cleaning. 

Good luck! Mark

[Winterracing]

Dan,

I've had no problem with just snugging all of the fasteners you mentioned good and hand tight with a wrench.  Be careful not to overtighten the bolts attaching the brake bracket to the spindle since you are going into aluminum. I would say no more than 180 in/lbs would do the trick.   

As far as repacking the bearings, you can do them the old fashioned way by put a glob of grease into your palm and then pushing the open side of the bearing into the grease repeatedly until you see grease come out the other side, making sure you go all the way around.  Or you can pick up a plastic wheel bearing repacking tool from your local auto parts store and just use your grease gun to repack.  Much easier and faster.  Also, I highly recommend you use Mobil 1 Sythetic grease(red in color) available at Fleet Farm or your local parts store.  I've used this grease on both my V-8 stuff and legends cars for many years with no problems.   BTW - Make sure you thoroughly clean the bearings first and then make sure they roll freely after cleaning. 

Good luck! Mark

Alright thank you that was helpful.  What do you torque the main nut on the spindle to?  I heard about 15 ft pounds then back off and hand tighten. 

Dan
www.winterracing.net

[Legends57x]

Dan,

That should work.