dual pedals or proration valve

[cryer]

what do you guys think my car is setup with dual pedals. is this the best way or switch to one with a proration valve

[thunder938]

The "dual" pedals works only one master cylinder.  The dual brake pedal is to help people who right foot or left foot brake.  The driver does not have to move his/her leg much while in the car

[cryer]

ok so I am able to use ether brake pedal then.

[VMS Motorsports]

Yes, just a matter of personal preference

[cryer]

thank you...so should I install a per portion valve

[VMS Motorsports]

Alot of people run one to the right front for dirt, not sure on the asphalt

[thunder938]

I run on pavement and some guys have one, thats all you can have now only 1.  We raced and very fast oval that you drove like a circle. I needed one on the rear brakes and I did use it and helped the loose in.  But I dont use it as much at tracks that have slower turns.  Some guys run a valve on the right front and that seams to help on the tracks with the slower turns. Turn down the braking on the right ft. and have the left ft help turn the car with the brake. I also race with guys who dont have any....SO, what ever fits your driving style

[Team510Racing.com]

If Ya don't like both brake pedals just cut the middle one out... Lot me comfortable for bigger guys....

[89tgreen]

I run Irwindale most and I've been thinking about a left front bias. We are loose in most of the time. Any feed back or ideas. I have it on the rear now but I never use it. I just adjust the drums so they just barely work.

[justfreaky]

I would run your proportioning valve to the right front wheel. That way you can soften up the right front brake and use the left front brake to help steer you into the turn.
Loose IN may be caused by too much rear brake bias (which I don't think is your problem); Too much stagger; Rear roll center may be too high; Right front spring rate too soft; Right rear spring rate too stiff; Cross weight. Add more cross weight; Right rear tire over-inflated; Or, rear roll steer is present in the chassis.

Steve

[89tgreen]

Thanks steve. I've been all over the map with springs roll centers front weight rear steer toe bump etc. You name it and I've tried it. The rear brakes don't have temp in them at all after a run so I know there not set wrong or to tight. A lot of people are free in at Irwindale. I've gone as stiff as 325 in the right front, but then it won't turn in the middle even with rr spring or lf spring. If I had more lf brake it would be bad. I was just thinking of trying it. I run in the top 3 so I'm not far off. Just a thought. Thanks again tho steve.

[VMS Motorsports]

Just food for thought, check your spring rates. I have a brand new USLC/600 racing/Vipercoil brand here marked 225 and it rates out at 220

[justfreaky]

You could use the proportioning valve to the left front and use it to control the amount of push into the turn.
Middle of turn push: The cures are similar to the loose in condition. Tire stagger, tire pressure in right rear or cross weight seem to be the general culprit according to my books. If you are running in the top 3 and most of the others are loose on entry, then you may just have to live with a certain amount of that. If you use a proportioning valve to the left front, you may want to use the screw type (opposed to lever type) to more closely dial in the amount of push on entry. The lever type proportioning valve may be too much as they are preset amounts for each click.

Steve

[89tgreen]

Your idea about not using the lever type bias is a good one. I didn't think about that. I was going to use the lever style to. Thanks for the ideas. Like I said I'm close but not there yet. Just trying to think out of the box u know. There is basically no banking and no straights so your on the edge into the corner and I just really feel it's a braking problem. I've changed the front calipers and tried staggering them and seemed like it was a good change. I will try the left front bias and let you guys know. Thanks again steve.