Caster Split

[TomTom]

 All right, Has anyone tried a 3*split caster on 1/4 mile high banked asphalt tracks ?  How did you like it ?

Tom #3

[John_Schwemler]

I say measure your rods before hand, noting the measurements you need to run normal, and w/ a 3* caster split, and try it.  It's a quick change if you already know how many turns you need to take out/ put in on the rod ends... 

Depending on your caster numbers, that change might make the wheel feel easier to turn or add some stability to the car coming off the corner.

[justfreaky]

You might try this link to Geoff's site. Cy Harvey has been playing with this set up for split caster set up.
http://bevanboysracing.informe.com/viewtopic.php?p=105#105
Perhaps Geoff can enlighten you on caster split a bit more.
As John already stated, It is an easy change to make. Just be sure to measure before the change so that you can put it back if you don't like it. Get to the track early so you have time to test.

Steve

[qweedqwag]

I run 2 and 3/4  left side and 6 on the right side, I love the way it makes the steering, I dont like the feeling of 0 and 3 turns to easy and makes corrects twitchy, 2 and 6 gives a good constant feel and helps with over correcting.

[RickyBobby]

The other problem with running 0 in the left front is the effect on cross.  If your car is loose or tight you are using steering input to correct.  At 0 degrees of castor that will change with the steering input making the car worse.  If you are not running 0 degress of castor and the car gets loose coming out of the corner.  When you counter steer the loose situation you will stand the left front up (roll the castor) and transfer weight to tighten up the car.  If you are running 0 and have the same situation you will make the car even more loose.

[TomTom]

I run 2 and 3/4  left side and 6 on the right side, I love the way it makes the steering, I dont like the feeling of 0 and 3 turns to easy and makes corrects twitchy, 2 and 6 gives a good constant feel and helps with over correcting.

Thanks for the info.....I'm running 2 LF---4 RF the last time I ran it was a 3/8 12 deg asphalt track & it was pushing real bad in the center & loose off...I had so much steering input in it was bad...Do u think a 3 LF & 6RF would help or even a 2 LF & 5 RF with the amount of steering wheel input

Thanks
Tom #3

[Racinjj]

You need more help than what caster will do.  Try taking some cross weight out or go to a stiffer RR spring.

[RickyBobby]

what were your front spring rates?

[TomTom]

what were your front spring rates?

I run a 225 LF & 200 RF.....200 LR & 185 RR which normally works but I moved the LR outboard the last time I ran @ a 1/4 mi. because I was loose in the middle thru exit & never moved it back.....Which must of put to much cross % for the 3/8 mi

[knoxracing]

I cant imagine running a 200 lb right front spring, are you trying to coil bind the car?  You are bottoming the shock out badly, and the whole car has to be rolled to right alot, upsetting the chassis.  As for the caster issue, to me its preference, but when you adjust caster you are changing the wheel base of the car, this will also change to car in the corner.

[RickyBobby]

That push you are feeling is from that right front spring bottoming out.  When there is no suspension travel left the car will shoot up the track.  Leave your 225 LF and put a 250 RF.  You want a heavier spring in the RF than the LF.  I would say fix that before you do anything with cross or Castor.