couple of questions....

[slack11]

Just thinking about some things for next year, was looking for a couple of opinions....

1.) Is it a good idea to wrap the headers to reduce engine compartment temps? or is the engine compartment open enough where this won't make much of a difference.

2.) Do the front mounted air scoops really make that much of a difference in cooling.

3.) Looking at a rear end squaring tool that clamps to the cross member, and uses the lasers to set the rear.  Are these handy or is it just as easy to do it the old fashion way..... If it saves a ton of time, and I need to check the rear weekly, it'll be worth the 125 bucks.


Thanks for any opinions.

[thunder938]

Hello, They are some people who make a laser tool that hang on the axle face or some rest against the tire.  That is the way to go. the crossmember may not be straight.  No with that being said YOUR car I just used a alum. yard stick and clapped it to the crossmember and used plum bobs from the housing.  Once I had a guy that had the laser set up and checked it and it was right on. So, YOUR crossmember IS straight.

Header rap..if you get oil on it when and if she blows up >>>>>big fire. that will not go out.

Scoops are nice, but you have to replace them now and then.  You will find once you get racing that the bumpers get beat up and the scoop is right there.  

[JGRacing]

On the post linked below Dennis Knox has a good method of squaring the rearend without having to spend the money on lasers.  The only downside is that you have to pull the fenders and grill, but could leave them on with some of the laser systems.  I used this method and it worked great. 

http://www.legendsracer.com/index.php?topic=85.msg10551#msg10551
 

[Winterracing]

On the post linked below Dennis Knox has a good method of squaring the rearend without having to spend the money on lasers.  The only downside is that you have to pull the fenders and grill, but could leave them on with some of the laser systems.  I used this method and it worked great. 

http://www.legendsracer.com/index.php?topic=85.msg10551#msg10551
 

since i am just starting racing legends i am going to use this method.  Just thinking about it i wonder if it would be easier to clamp a bar on the rear clip against the tires and measure the front bar to the rear bar.  If not what should i measure to?

Dan
www.winterracing.net

[JGRacing]

With the new dirt tires having a size that varies, not sure that I would a wheelbase measurement off of them.  Measuring off the wheel is not perfect, but takes the tire variable out. 

[Racingtrader.ca]

Just thinking about some things for next year, was looking for a couple of opinions....

1.) Is it a good idea to wrap the headers to reduce engine compartment temps? or is the engine compartment open enough where this won't make much of a difference.

I have only noticed it helps from melting fenders, temp wise I seem to be the same.

2.) Do the front mounted air scoops really make that much of a difference in cooling

I run one but can't remember my temp before I installed it. I would say yes it does help tho

3.) Looking at a rear end squaring tool that clamps to the cross member, and uses the lasers to set the rear.  Are these handy or is it just as easy to do it the old fashion way..... If it saves a ton of time, and I need to check the rear weekly, it'll be worth the 125 bucks.

The CRP gauge works great I use and sell them locally (Nova Scotia) and it has really cut down time you can set it at the track in minutes.


Thanks for any opinions.

[thunder938]

the last time I was at Knox"s shop he would put his lasers up against the rear tires pointing forword.  He would then use a tape measure from the front part of the frame near the base of the fire wall with the laser hitting the tape.  make sure both side are the same.  Now if you were to do that I would have a few wheels that you dont race with that you know are straight

[VMS Motorsports]

You can buy cheap magnetic laser levels for $20 a pair on eBay or from Harbor Freight all day long. That and a 6' piece of square 1" tubing and a couple magnets will do just as good a job as anything you can buy out there. Plumb bobs and duct tape work just as well, just a little more time consuming. Spend your money on an extra tire or the heavy duty valve springs next rebuild, or put it in your kids college fund!
That's one of the cool things about racing...you can make your own tools and set it up yourself! So many people/businesses prey on the racers by offering the next best tool or the greatest this or that. Racers historically will pay for anything that will gain an extra tenth or guarantee performance. Its a shame. Thats why I don't sell anything like that. I'm a racer, Dan's a racer, Chris is a racer... you get so much more satisfaction from doing something yourself for $20 than with some $120 special tool somebody makes to "guarantee" your housing is straight.

I'll step off my soap box now...

[Winterracing]

With the new dirt tires having a size that varies, not sure that I would a wheelbase measurement off of them.  Measuring off the wheel is not perfect, but takes the tire variable out. 

I wasn't sure, i got to thinking that it might have been more exact to measure off of the rear tires and have a bar across the back making sure each side is the same, basically doing the same thing as the front end and just measure bar to bar.  I checked my rear end yesterday and just put the one end of the tape in the bead of the tire and measured to the bar clamped on the front end.  I'm not sure if this is making any sense or if i'm just rambleing but just some thoughts.

Dan
www.winterracing.net

[Racingtrader.ca]

Here is a link to the gauge I was talking about. http://www.cleggracingproducts.com/rear-end-squaring-gauge The issue I had with other methods was time and we hardly get enough time to refuel the car and check tires etc before our features. I'm sure you could make something similar  for less tho.

[slack11]

I think half of my garage came from harbor freight....... 

 I'm making a trip there this weekend, I'm gonna try to "create" a tool like you were talking about.  Like you were saying, getting started this year I've got plenty of other things to spend money on right now.....

Thanks for all the help, gotta love a group of racers that is willing to help out the little guy getting going..

Nate

[knoxracing]

I would not measure from the rear.

1)Part of the reason for using the method in the link is to align the rear axle with the front clip. The rear need to be as square to front area as possible.
2) The tires are not the same diameter, rather from cutting or just racing.
3)Using the method i have described requires very little investment and it is as accurate as my $2000.00 laser system. I have checked it.
4)You have to remember what the goal is, it is to square the rear axle housing to the rest of the chassis.

[Winterracing]

I would not measure from the rear.

1)Part of the reason for using the method in the link is to align the rear axle with the front clip. The rear need to be as square to front area as possible.
2) The tires are not the same diameter, rather from cutting or just racing.
3)Using the method i have described requires very little investment and it is as accurate as my $2000.00 laser system. I have checked it.
4)You have to remember what the goal is, it is to square the rear axle housing to the rest of the chassis.

So on the way you described you measure from the front bar to what on the rear?

Thanks,
Dan
www.winterracing.net

[JGRacing]

When I used that method, I measured to the front edge of the rear wheels (make sure to use straight wheels).  If not sure that the wheels are straight, jack up the rear of the car, turn the wheel, set it back down and re-measure.  Not 100% perfect way of doing it, but works much better than measuring off of the rear cross member in my opinion.