Preffered Heim Joint?

[Chunk]

Just curious what everyone uses. I have been looking at different ones for a while now. I have used the standard cheap steal ones but have heard of people using molly ones. Just curious what everyone's opinion is. Is there a certain one that gets more travel?

[justfreaky]

I just buy the economy ones from Jim. Price is right and the aluminum trailing arms and panhard bar are going to give before the heims.

Steve

[knoxracing]

I LIKE THE CHROME MOLY LINED JOINTS. They atre blak in color, they last a LONG time and are very tough. The heavy heims alot of guys call the gold ones, are bulky and heavy. The oes I sell run about $12.50 each, verses $8.00 for the standard teflon joint we sell

[VMS Motorsports]

I use the cheap/economy ones everywhere (but I also replace them every year as maintenance, less than $100 to replace them all).
I recommend them (economy) anywhere there is a mounting point/lollipop on the chassis, . I have in the past, and seen others, use stronger heims and tear the lollipop out of the chassis, especially the trailing arm mounts.
Can't fix that at the track

[knoxracing]

There is a market for the basic joints and there are racers that can spend the extra buck for the better joints. I have had a lot of play in the basic joints after a few races, I am a perfectionist and can not deal with  slop in joints, lol. I would rather have the Aluminum bar bend or break than have the heim bend.  If you are hit hard enough to bend a heim, you have bent aluminum bars or snapped them, they will bend or break before the attachment point goes anywhere. I want my heim joint to take the hit and still be usable, the aluminum bars are bending anyway, thats why steel bars are illegal. Just my thought process.
dennis Knox
Buckeye legends
330-310-92112

[VMS Motorsports]

On dirt, where there are implement tires in the infield, a straight on shot clipping the tire with the left rear tire will not bend a trailing arm bar or heim, all of the force is driven in a linear fashion straight back. No chance to bend, so it tears out the lolli pop. I've done it before and seen others that have done it with my own eyes. Grade 5 bolts and cheap heims are the only thing that helps in that situation

[knoxracing]

You dirt guys are always sideways, lol. Thats something hard to remember on this site, there are alot of dirt racers and that does change the whol ball game I am sure.

[NJRacer510]

I would agree with Dennis, We use the teflon heims from USLC but if I didn't use those I would use the ones that Dennis sells. I woulnd't put the economy ones on my car even if they were free, i have had them create to much play in measurements after just one race especially when we raced on dirt. Once they start to have play in them that means those measurements change every second during a race. Years ago I had heard this clunking noise when we would roll the car around in the shop after just a few races. It ended up being the heims on the 3rd link, it would move the rear at least an 1/8" every time the car moved. You may save yourself a few dollars in the beginning but in the end you are going to spend more. Plus I am also like Dennis, if i feel any movement in a heim it comes off because things like that drive me nuts, lol.

[knoxracing]

Todd for sure! I really believe if there is play in a heim on certain points of the car it will snap bolts, thats a real issue to worry about.

[Chunk]

Thanks guys! I plan on getting the molly ones with the coating. I wrecked really bad a month ago and destroyed my chassis. However, I am looking forward to building a new beautiful car!

[north pole racer]

from what ive seen at my track is the cheap ones have to be changed 2-3 times a year,everyone of them. thats no savings and a hell of a lot of extra wrenching time as well. and we only run between memorial weekend and labor weekend. thats like 24 races and 12 practice nights.