Author Topic: clutch info  (Read 11132 times)

Offline djracing

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clutch info
« on: May 07, 2010, 01:14:30 am »
I started up the engine today, first time since prob 6 months. It runs fine, but the clutch isn't working at the moment. The car is up on jackstands and when I put it in gear the rear wheels instantly spin. Pushing in the clutch wont disengage it either. Is there a bleeder on the back of the motor for the clutch? Should I try that? I was reading some other threads seems like if you let the motor warm up it should start working again. I think I only let it run for 5 - 7 minutes so not sure if that was long enough.




Offline Tornadorex

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2010, 01:46:16 am »
Let the car down or hold the breaks engage the clutch and turn the engine over it will probably work. After seting all the oil has pushed out from between the plates they are kindof suctiond together
ohhh........this is gona hurt


Offline VMS Motorsports

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2010, 06:04:04 am »
I started up the engine today, first time since prob 6 months. It runs fine, but the clutch isn't working at the moment. The car is up on jackstands and when I put it in gear the rear wheels instantly spin. Pushing in the clutch wont disengage it either. Is there a bleeder on the back of the motor for the clutch? Should I try that? I was reading some other threads seems like if you let the motor warm up it should start working again. I think I only let it run for 5 - 7 minutes so not sure if that was long enough.

It takes a little while for them to wake up after hibernation DJ, just be patient
JIM BUCHER
VMS Motorsports
Worldwide Legends Parts Supplier
(262)255-7100
http://www.vmsmotorsports.com/

Offline racerrad8

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2010, 12:54:39 pm »
Also check the clutch master cylinder for fluid. If it is empty, fill & open the bleeder on the slave down near the driveshaft coupler with an 8mm wrench. Let the fluid run until free of bubbles. You do not need to pump it to bleed; it will gravity bleed just fine.

The slave cylinders seals go bad and the need to be resealed on occasion.

I have a reseal kit in stock if needed.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM
randy@rpmracingca.com
2010 INEX/Intercomp Raceteam of the Year.
2009 INEX National and World Champion, Thunder Roadster.

Offline Bigmil

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2010, 08:36:40 am »
DJ did you get it working again?

I just installed an engine that has been sitting for a year and I am having similar problems and I was wondering if you got your fixed and what it took (like you long did you have to warm it up for).


Thanks,
Gerad
Gerad Miller
34' Ford Coupe Smoke (Color not the driver)
Running in the Tri-State Legends Series
BigmilMotorsports.com
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Offline VMS Motorsports

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2010, 09:43:59 am »
Doesnt take too long, he got his working fine, make sure you bleed it, if it still doesnt work  give Randy a call for the seal kit. Or swap the one off your bad motor
JIM BUCHER
VMS Motorsports
Worldwide Legends Parts Supplier
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http://www.vmsmotorsports.com/


Offline djracing

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2010, 12:42:55 pm »
Yep it didn't take too long. I did bleed it, and the engine just had to get good and warm for it to start working again. Works great now.

Offline Bigmil

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2010, 05:19:30 pm »
Sounds good, I guess I will let the engine get warm tonight!

Thanks,
Gerad
Gerad Miller
34' Ford Coupe Smoke (Color not the driver)
Running in the Tri-State Legends Series
BigmilMotorsports.com
contact@bigmilmotorsports.com


Offline Bigmil

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Re: clutch info
« Reply #8 on: July 23, 2010, 11:05:06 am »
ahh...haa!
There are two different size clutch rods and they only differ by 1/4".
I changed clutch rods and everything works now!!

Yay, I get to race this weekend!!
Gerad
Gerad Miller
34' Ford Coupe Smoke (Color not the driver)
Running in the Tri-State Legends Series
BigmilMotorsports.com
contact@bigmilmotorsports.com

 

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