LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
LEGENDS => Engine Care & Tuning => Topic started by: LM5 on August 30, 2011, 06:54:45 pm
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Hi guys,
My battery went dead so my car sat there for 4-5 weeks without being started. When I putthe new battery in and tried to start it it wouldn't fire. I check the fuel at the end where the line connects to the carbs and fuel is getting there. Checked there was spark which there was. I even tried some fuel down the carbs but still wouldn't fire. Any ideas?
Thanks
Linden
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Why did your battery go dead? Was it sitting for awhile, or was it just between race weekends?
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Fuel can go stale in that period of time. Not in larger quanities like in the fuel cell but the smaller amounts of fuel setting inside the carb bowls. When you go to fire the engine up, that fuel lost it's volitility and by time a good mix gets into the float bowls that will burn, the spark plugs foul out. Most likely what happened in this case is the plugs fouled from stale fuel. The center electrode of the spark plug gets coated and shorted out. Even if the plugs look dry, electricity is lazy.... before it will jump the plug's gap, It will follow the coated spark plug center electrode to ground. Gap and install new pkugs and the engine should start
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Thanks for that, I will try some new spark plugs. What plugs do you suggest, if you have a part number that would be great.
I bought the car a few months ago and i believe the battery had already started to die as it didnt hold much charge then. I keep the new one on a trickle charger and havent had any problems.
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Sorry hoopy I forgot to ask, would it still be the plugs even if you can see a good spark on all four plugs? plus they are completely dry.
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Does it pop and bang like it is firing?
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No it doesn't. It had one pop when I put some fuel down the carbies but that's it.
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Apology for the delay on posting back. I was down today...
the spark plug number in NGK brand is DPR8EA-9
Fouled plugs can fire with them unscrewed and laying on the head while engine cranked over.
Screwed into the head under compression they will not fire
Hope that helps, my friend
~ Gimpster ~
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Thanks so much. Ill grab some plugs at lunch and try it tonight. Will let you know how I go.
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The fuel we get these days is junk. It will go bad in the carbs in a couple of weeks. Good thing we pay so much for it since it is crap. Always drain your carbs out before it is going to sit for a while.
Scott
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The fuel we get these days is junk. It will go bad in the carbs in a couple of weeks. Good thing we pay so much for it since it is crap. Always drain your carbs out before it is going to sit for a while.
Scott
Thats a good tip i'm going to make sure to do this now when the car sits for longer then a week
Dan
www.winterracing.net
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We have been fighting the 'junk' fuel issue since the '90s in the bike world. Could used to loosen spark plugs to lower compression and spark plugs would clean out themselves simply by cranking the engine over. Remove them and blow them out with compressed air would work also. Somewhere in the late 90's on, almost have to beed blast the plug tips to clean them out. Times through the 80's when a bike carb needed to be cleaned, open the bowl up and would find a green coating of stale gas inside. Now days there is a white color film, shale or powder clogging the carb. First thing to clog is the pilot jets causing no start. Most people choke the engine after it will not start and foul coat the spark plugs. More and more as years pass, cleaning the pilot jets with carb cleaner and compressed air will not do the trick anymore. I'm constantly using index drill bits on pilot jets to unclog them. The best thing out there to add to fuel if the unit is to set for a while is Sea Foam. pour the spec amount into the tank then let the unit run for about 15 minutes to make sure it is distributed through the fuel system and coats the inside of the float bowl... drain the bowls afterwards to ensure no stale gas mix will foul plugs when restarted. Only draining the float bowls with no fuel treatment run through the system will only accelerate the white shale or powder to accumulate, at times to the point it will eat into and distort components inside the carb
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Should we pull the foam out of the fuel cell before using Sea Foam?
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Can't offer an opinion on the SeaFoam, never used it, but would recommend changing the fuel cell foam every other year if you have ethanol in your fuel like we do.
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Yes, leave the foam in. In my past experience Stabil starts gettng bad in a few months. Guess I have been a sea foam user since the 70's. Good stuff and I have not found any stabilizer that measure up to it. It is safe for your in tank foam. My pops used to use it back when I was a cub, when winterizing the old Harleys, Nortons, Triumphs and Hondas that he serviced
~ Gimpster ~
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I use it my truck, generator,motorcycle and my race car. I use it in about everything that has a gas engine. It really works well. And yes, I use in my new (new to me) diesel truck.
Scott
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Turned out to be the ignition box. Swapped it over and it fired straight away.
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Red box or stock XJ/FJ box?
Randy - RPM
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It was a stock black box.
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Im looking around for a replacement box and Ive noticed differences in boxes. The box in my car is labelled "digital ignitor TID14-90" and others are labelled "ic ignitor TID14-50". Can someone please tell me the difference and if they can be used. Thanks
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The only difference in black boxes is vacume port or not. Black boxes that look identical but have a different ending numbers are normally a vendor Id. Both boxes can be in a new parts bag from Yamaha and sport the same number on the bag. The part its self with the different ending number on it signifies who Yamaha contracted to manuifacture the box. One ending number could be Seiki and the other ending number represent Denso built. Like I say, most likely the number difference on the part itself is who manufactured the box for Yamaha.
~ Gimpster ~
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Not to step on toes here Gimpster... ;D
There are 3 black boxes. One without the vacuum advance, one with the vacuum advance, and one with the vacuum advance contained within the box (will have a hose barb on the box itself)
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And all of these will work? It's just that every time I see a legend car ignition it's the tid-90 and priced from $250. Where as the tid-50 are only $50
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I believe they all will work, never used one with the vacuum in the box.
The non vacuum one has a lower rev limiter, 9800 I think
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I grabbed a couple of the units as there weren't expensive. I got a tid14 30, 50 and 51. I did some more research and found this www.erd.co.nz/images/Yamaha%20Binder.pdf looks like they are wired up slightly different. Has any one got one of these and now the order for the wires?
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Did they show up with the connectors that plug into the box ?
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No they were just the box. It looks like these are from pre 89 FJ1200 and look like they wont work. I think I have sourced one, the only problem I am having is with the sensor. Currently as the car was there is no sensor connected to CDI, is that ok? what will happen without it?
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You do not need the vacuum module
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Yeah, leave it open