LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
LEGENDS => Drivetrain & Gearing => Topic started by: racerdad on August 06, 2012, 08:05:14 pm
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need some help again i replaced my pinion seal and it added to the resistance of the pinion. i know the new seal will do that but i do not know how much. i checked it with the inch pound wrench and it was 17 in pounds and when i put it back together the way it was it was 30in pounds then i turned it and checked it and turned it and checked it. it got better and better now it is at 23 in pounds.
one thing i know i did wrong was i put some gear lude on the yoke not the pinion seal so when i put the yoke back on the seal may have pushed the lube off.
so what i need to know is will the seal add 6 in pounds
thanks cody
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need some help again i replaced my pinion seal and it added to the resistance of the pinion. i know the new seal will do that but i do not know how much. i checked it with the inch pound wrench and it was 17 in pounds and when i put it back together the way it was it was 30in pounds then i turned it and checked it and turned it and checked it. it got better and better now it is at 23 in pounds.
one thing i know i did wrong was i put some gear lude on the yoke not the pinion seal so when i put the yoke back on the seal may have pushed the lube off.
so what i need to know is will the seal add 6 in pounds
thanks cody
No, when you re-torqued the pinion nut you added more tension the the crush sleeve which added more pressure to the pinion bearings. You will probably need to...
1) shim the crush sleeve and then reset the torque and bearing preload
2) Install a new crush sleeve and start fresh.
That is the hard part about replacing the seal of a crush sleeve pinion.
Randy - RPM
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well that sucks but that was what i was thinking.
so i am going to have the rear end rebuilt any one have any tricks i should know about
thanks cody
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Where an you get a crush sleeve from or what is he part number ? And what do you retire at ?
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My opinion is, if you dont know how to assemble a gear correctly , dont attempt it.You can do more damage than good. Let a professional do it.
We have built hundreds of these things. Send it to us and we can rebuild it for you.
CMG Motorsports.com
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My oppinion; IF you are just on the site to sell parts and services, Please post them in the appropriate dealer section.
None of this stuff is rocket science. Anyone CAN learn to do it themselves. What I don't know how to do, I either learn or hire someone to do it for me.
Steve
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Vern,
Contact Jim at VMS Motorsports. He sells a kit that includes new crush sleeve, new pinion seal & nut, shims, 8 bolts, and paper gasket for differential for $45. I just bought one for a center section I am rebuilding.
Good luck! :)
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I agree about doing it yourself if you know the clearances and the procedure for assembly. I have seen many that have tried to do it theirselves and in the long run ruining the ring gear. When time to rebuild , it cost more because from the begining not being set up correctly. That was all I was trying to say.
You can refer to standard toyota specs just make sure to run a little more backlash in a racing application.
Mike
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Anyone can buy a repair manual that gives the clearances and torque specs. Take your time, and put some effort into the details. You CAN do it yourself.
If you don't want to spend the time and research, then pay someone like Mike to do it for you.
Steve
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So I'm a newby in Legends cars and on this forum. I do have previous experience on numerous racing vehicles so I am confident to rebuild my rear differential. My rebuild kit did just come in the mail from VMS so I'm ready to go! I was just wondering if anybody on here has the correct torque specs for the bearing preload or if I can be directed to where they would be. Thanks in advance! ~Mike
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Hi Mike,
These are some specs that I know of right off:
Torque spec’s
0.006 – 0.009 back lash for gears.
Ring gear torque 55 ft/lbs
bearing caps 60 ft/lbs
Hope that helps.
Steve
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Thanks for the reply Steve. Unless I'm mistaken those torque specs are for the bolts, correct? The numbers I'm looking for are the torque numbers for the pinion bearing preload. Another question I have about this particular rear end is do the bearing caps act like shims to adjust the backlash? As in do you adjust the backlash by moving those into different grooves? Thanks again! ~MH
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Number one question.. pinion nut torque - Before loosening the pinion nut, take an inch pound torque wrench and check how many inch pounds it takes to turn the pinion over. Reason being you do not know who set up the rear end or their spec. Write the number down. Now remove the pinion nut and replace the seal. Install the nut and torque it to around 90 foot pounds. Check how many inch pounds it takes to turn over the rear end. Torque more if the number is low.... When installing a new sleeve behind the flange, the torque needed to find the right inch pound spec may be up to 200 foot pounds of nut torque to set the sleeve. I recommend you have someone help you that has experience doing this if you have never set up a rear end before... hypoid gears take a finesse to set up proper and not have issues later on.
Number 2 question.. those caps - They are threaded and not grooved as you are thinking. You don't just turn one in and not the other unless you are initially setting up a gear set. Don't mess with them if you have no experience at setting up hypoid gear a rear end. Once the procedure I mentioned above for installing a new sleeve has been completed and pinion depth set, those covers are turned in or out while using gear paint to set the tooth contact pattern. The bearing cap bolts must be loosened in order for the caps to turn. By turning them it moves the ring gear closer or away from the pinion. You don't just turn one in and not the other unless you are initially setting up a gear set. In relation, this will show on the contact pattern of the heal or toe of each gear tooth and where the pinion gear teeth contact the ring gear. If the ring gear is moved too far away from the pinion and the rear end put under load, it will rip the teeth off the ring gear. On the the hand if the ring gear is moved too close to the pinion it will cause heat and drag which will burn up bearings and gears. Do not attempt to "set the caps in a different groove" as you said because you will wind up buying a new gear set in the end.
Find someone who KNOWS how to set up a hypoid gear of this size and have them show you how to set gear tooth patterns with paint plus set up a dial indicator to set the backlash properly. If you feel daring and have time and money to waste, search for how to do it on youtube LMAO (I don't suggest this) Replace your seal like I mentioned in the first paragraph or find someone who has experience ant the right tools and gauges to properly set up the gear and have them school ya by the hands on technique.... it's the only way to fly
~Gimpster~