LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
LEGENDS => Setup and Handling => Topic started by: VMS Motorsports on December 24, 2007, 08:16:59 pm
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Looking for a relatively neutral two-tone (black and tan) set-up. I race dirt and have only raced on dirt, but may have to run some asphalt next year just to fill in some time (we only have 15 shows scheduled). Car is set up very well for the dirt now, and wont have alot of time to switch over between dirt Saturday and Asphalt Wednesday. Other than cut tires, and different springs (Im thinking another set of shocks and springs to just bolt on to lessen the resetting of everything?)...anybody run both and have something to share?
Thanks, and Merry Christmas
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I run both dirt and asphalt, however I'm fortunate in that I have two cars, one is set up for dirt and the other for asphalt. I tried going the single car route but I could never really get the right set up for each switching back and forth. I typically race dirt on Friday night and asphalt on Saturday with the tracks about two hundred miles apart! So as having two cars makes a lot of sense for me in that it makes life much easier. I'm more experienced on dirt and this was my first year racing asphalt so I'm still learning.
As far as set ups, I race the same caster/camber, wedge, ride heights on both cars. The difference is in the spring wieghts, the dirt car has lighter springs, 200 LF, 225 RF, 165 LR and 145 RR versus 275/300RF, 250LF, 185 LR and 200 RR. This is due to the dirt track being rougher and sometimes deeply rutted and a heavier spring will not only beat you to death but will cause the car to bounce out of control. However some racers do run heavier springs than I and are very successful. The other difference is I run half the the tire pressures on the dirt car than I do for the asphalt car, and of course camber cut tires on the asphalt.
Your idea of having shocks/springs mated and ready to swap is a good one. Its a lot cheaper than two cars!
You may also want to have a set of uncut tires to swap for dirt also. I've seen cut tires run in the main on a dry slick dirt track, however they typically don't work well on a sloppy track during the heats.
I hope I've been somewhat helpful.
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Thanks, Im hoping we get enough shows so I get my racing fix on the dirt, but if push comes to shove, I'll be stuck in the back of the pack at the Milwaukee Mile! I had thought about 2 cars, but I am in the process of opening a new business, and should probably spend my money there!
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Hi VMS,
You run half the pressure in your tires for dirt... Mind sharing the pressure range?
Thanks,
Mike
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Jim,
I'll post you a general baseline for both as soon as things settle down here. I have a house full right now.
Steve
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Mike, What works for me has been 12 lbs on the left, 10.5 on the right front, and 9 on the right rear. Car was hooked up sweet with 8 in the right rear until the tire came off...wish we could run bead locks!
Steve, I lookforward to any info you can give me.
Thanks
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I'm going to have to look in the new rules when I get them, but I think I remember hearing something about bead locks being considered.
Anyone else?
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BTW VMS, that is much lower than I thought you'd be able to get away with those tires. Good to know.
Thanks,
Mike
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I know they changed it last year so you could run some sheetmetal screws through your rim, but that just doesnt interest me. We have been lobbying for a while to get beadlocks on the right rear, INEX always said no, its not a safety issue. Let me tell you, you hit a rut and lose a tire full bore in a corner, that rim digs into the clay and you're ass over teakettle pretty quick...sounds like a safety issue to me. Or they could just mandate a minumum tire pressure I guess, but I sure handle better with 8 lbs. I'm not smart enough to be able to figure out what coil to put in there to equal the spring rate change :-[
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I'm betting if I tried going out there on pavement with 8 lbs of air I wouldn't make 2 laps!
You're right, it wasn't bead lock, just a couple screws through the rim.
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The old tried and true practice of screws through the rim and into the bead of the tire has been around for a long time. I think beadlocks are a much safer practice.
Just my oppinion.
Steve
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OK;
This is right from the book (BUY THE BOOK!!!!)
"Dwarf Car Technology" by Steve Smith Autosports
Just a baseline:
Starting Specs - Dirt Track
Track Type: Flat to Medium Bank, 1/4 Mile
Car Weight: 1180# w/Driver
Front Roll Ceneter: 1.625"
Roll Center: 8"
CGH: 16"
52.5 - 53% Left Side Weight; 52-53% Rear; 48- 50 % Cross
No Front Sway Bar
Spring Rates:
LF: 160
RF: 200
LR: 150
RR: 150
Shocks: (These are Carerra #s)
Fronts: 54
Rears: 63 or 73
Front End Alignment:
Caster:
LF: +2.5"
RF: +3.5"
Camber:
LF: +1.5"
RF: -2.5"
Toe-Out: 1/4"
Starting Specs - Paved Track
Track Type: Flat to Medium Bank, 1/4 Mile
Car Weight: 1180# w/Driver
Front Roll Center: 1.625"
Rear Roll Center: 9"
CGH: 14.5"
52% Left, 53% Rear, 51.5% Cross
Front Sway Bar: .875"
Spring Rates:
LF: 200
RF: 225
LR: 150
RR: 125
Shocks: (These are Carerra #s)
Front: 54
Rear: 63 or 73
Front End Alignment:
Caster:
LF: +2"
RF: +4"
Camber:
LF: +1.75"
RF: -3"
Toe-Out: 1/8"
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Hmmmmmm, looks like I'm going to have to lose about 75 lbs! ;D
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By the time you put the fenders and stuff on a Dwarf Car............ There will be differences. Just showing what they recommend as a baseline starting point.
Don't give up the meat and potatos just yet :D ;D
Steve