LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
BANDOLEROS => Drivetrain & Gearing => Topic started by: elimn8u_43 on April 07, 2008, 06:30:37 pm
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I am wondering what the best way to adjust the chain on a Bandolero is. I just finished putting my car back together and I adjusted the chain with my son in the car. I left about a 1/4" deflection in the chain. When he got out of the car the chain is extremely tight. Is this normal? Should I leave the chain a little looser?
Geoff
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This is pretty normal. We do the same thing. The car races with the driver in it, so it shouldn't ever really raise up to the height that tightens the chain too much.
Have never figured out how come they put springs on the rear of a chain driven car. lol
If you start popping chains, or notice excess wear on the gears, just loosen it up a little bit.
Hope this helps!
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Ran across this info awhile back:
http://www.chopperweb.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17620&highlight=Chain+Tensioner
http://www.renold.com/Products/TransmissionChainSprockets/Roll_Ring.asp?MenuLinkID=614&MenuID=39&gclid=CPjo9aCmvo4CFQ4cHgod2AJv0Q
http://www.pobcoplastics.com/snapidle.htm
There is also the skateboard wheel and spring idea that works pretty well.
Just tossin' out some ideas for you Geoff.
Hope that helps!
If not, PM or email. I'll see what else I have on chain tensioners.
Steve
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That is very interesting. That O ring would probably be the way to go for a bando. Nice find!
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That roll ring is brilliant! Good find Steve.
Mike
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1/4" deflection is way to tight! We run 1/2" - 3/4". Running the chain to tight will limit the axle down-travel and cause the car to be tight, not to mention chain and sprocket wear. With a heavy driver the chain may be snug or tight when the driver gets out of the car. A lightweight driver will have less effect on the chain tension.
We have also found the 600 sprockets to be of questionable quality and material. A much better sprocket is available made by Rocket Sprocket.
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always adjust your chain with the driver in it . 1/2 slack is the best make sure you always oil the chain when he goes out , make sure you do not put oil into the shoes. use the gold chain cost more but last longer. replace chain after 5 races. or when links start to tighen up . if you adjust the shock towers you must adjust the chain tension. the chain will tighten up when you lift the car up . you can put 31/2 blocks under the axle to do adjust without the driver. remember to take them out before racing .
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Placing blocks between the birdcages and frame is a great thing! we cut a 2x4 cut diagonally and place them with the driver in place.
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Thanks for the information, this is an old post. I have figured out everything mentioned here except that I use Hortsman sprockets now. 600 sprokets are definately junk.
Geoff
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We use the Horstman gears on our karts and they work great. Used them for about 5 years now.
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If you try the Rocket Sprockets you'll throw rocks at the Hortsman and beat the 600 sprockets with large hammers! .....of course that comes from a Rocket Dealer!
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Of course, you gotta get that "plug" in there.
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better check rule book about using other than stock 600 noram clutches.
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I thought we were talking about the rear sprocket not the front?
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To the best of my knowlege, and I'm not too bright (although my dad did used to call me sun)(Groan!!!);
The discussion moved on to sprockets. Not going with a different brand of clutch. Just the sprockets.
Steve
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Noram (600) clutch parts are very limited through 600. these clutches are also used in the Mini-Cup cars. A good source for clutch parts is APS Karting. The link to their clutch parts page is:
http://host179.ebm.bestsoftwarehost.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx? (http://host179.ebm.bestsoftwarehost.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?)
Replace the fiber washers often, the washer will help keep grease off the shoes and drum.
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We have been using chain tentioners in 1/4 migets for years and now in mimi sprints, simple fix for chain and suspenion movement.TELL INEX WHAT YOU NEED!!!
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UP Date On Chain Tensioner----$14.95 on Ebay --Installed one on kart, bolted to engine (Briggs) reversed clutch to inside, chain lined up easy no problem works great.
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Does anyone know how much the roller ring is ? Is it 600 legal?
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That roller ring is ungodly expensive. You can build a cheap tensioner from an old skateboard wheel and afew bit you likely have laying around the garage.
Steve
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I'm sure 600 will not approve any type of tensioner or roller. If you adjust the chain properly, keep it lubed, keep the engine secure and make sure it is aligned, you should have no problems. We have raced 60+ races including 15 road courses withour a single chain or sprocket failure. We do spend a lot of effort on the chain and sprockets. It is the nature of the beast..
The most common problem I see is adjusting the chain to tight. With the driver in the car, car on level ground, the chain should have up and down movement of 3/4".
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Ran across this info awhile back:
http://www.chopperweb.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17620&highlight=Chain+Tensioner
http://www.renold.com/Products/TransmissionChainSprockets/Roll_Ring.asp?MenuLinkID=614&MenuID=39&gclid=CPjo9aCmvo4CFQ4cHgod2AJv0Q
http://www.pobcoplastics.com/snapidle.htm
There is also the skateboard wheel and spring idea that works pretty well.
Just tossin' out some ideas for you Geoff.
Hope that helps!
If not, PM or email. I'll see what else I have on chain tensioners.
Steve
Just a heads up. These three links do not work anymore.
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Unfortunately, most of our Bando threads are from years past. :'(
Roughly, 1/2" of play in the chain (top to bottom).
I would likely shoot for somewhere in the 3/8th" range. Just me though.
Steve
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Yes, chain tension must have 3/4" to 1" slack. Place your driver in the car and put the wooden wedges underneath BOTH bird cages. Mark the wedges if you desire to make chain adjustments in the future without the driver. When you get the chain where you want it (3/4" to 1" slack), tighten the left side wing bolt until it touches the engine base. Then tighten the nut on the same wing bolt. I would put the driver in the car and remove the wooden wedges, if the chain is still where you want it, then get a white paint pen and mark the threads on the wing bolt right behind the nut. The next time you need to make a chain adjustment you can just crack the nut on the wing bolt then loosen the wing bolt by hand. To put the chain at the same tension just tighten the wing bolt by hand with the nut in its marked place on the threads. The chain tension will be correct, unless you have changed ride height, spring rates, driver's weight, clutch drum(clutch sprocket), axle sprocket (gear), and/or wheel base.
I have noticed that when the chain is too tight the bearings in the clutch drum seize up very quickly. When the chain is too loose the chain eats the teeth off of the clutch drum and the axle gear.
Here is what I have to REMEMBER:
EVER TIME I change the spring rates and/or ride heights.... CHECK THE CHAIN TENSION WITH THE DRIVER!!!!
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Thanks to the magic of internet archive...(just goes to show nothing you post ever really goes away ;D )
Here's the roll ring stuff and the SnapIdle from Pobco:
https://web.archive.org/web/20091107051900/http://www.renold.com/Products/TransmissionChainSprockets/Roll_Ring.asp?MenuLinkID=614&MenuID=39
https://web.archive.org/web/20091012212108/http://www.renold.com/nmsruntime/saveasdialog.asp?lID=553&sID=1895
https://www.roll-ring.com/?lang=en
https://web.archive.org/web/20111115080720/http://pobcoplastics.com/snapidle.htm
May need to cut and paste the address into your browser if the hyperlinks don't work.