LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
LEGENDS => General => Topic started by: tbevirt on February 12, 2013, 10:52:33 pm
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So I couldnt find anything in the rules about project threads so I thought Id go ahead and make a project thread for our schools car.
jhidde and I are working with our campus' SCCA club to build a legends car that was given to us by our mechanical engineering department. We are attempting to prep it for autocross. To my knowledge the car has not been raced for more than a decade. The wiring was trash, the tires are bad, the fiberglass needs work, the brakes probably need rebuilding, to summerise there is lots to do. All of us working on it right now are engineers of some sort. I personally am a mechanical grad student, we also have a civil grad student, as well as a mechanical and an electrical undergrad working.
Things we know right now:
The motor turns over and we have spark. (We did not have time after it fired to make sure the gas in the carbs was good)
We think we have an FJ1200 TCI vs an XJR1200 TCI (which I understand is what is factory for legends cars)
We have at least one seized or partially seized rotor.
The miata radiator fan we are setting to help cool the motor needs a bracket made.
The brakes need to be bled.
It is the belief of many on the team that the diff is wielded but a few members think it could be a locker
What are goals are:
Have the car running for the first autocross event at Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds. An awesome blacktop that has no obstructions what so ever. (secondary goal, have the car set to run at a Clemson autocross event coming up about an hour and a half from where we are). This is a link to the blacktop at Michelin: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=34.388514,-82.02457&hl=en&ll=34.388487,-82.023808&spn=0.005596,0.013078&num=1&t=h&z=17
To have a car set up for our club so that those with out a car at school or who do not have a car that can run autocross can join us at events and drive.
To meet that we dont have a large budget so everything needs to be done on the cheap.
Part of doing it on the cheap means finding a source of cheap tires, Panic Motorsports have been very helpful in the past and would supply us with used Hoosier SM6s (P205/50ZR15 Hoosier R6 tires essentially).
Things we need:
4x114 15 inch wheels that are cheap and are close to the correct offset
Some one willing to tow our car to evetns
Time
Money and most importantly beer.
Because we arent really looking to win anything and just have fun we are not super worried about what class we end up in. I have never seen a legends car at one of our events so it would not be likely that there would be anything to run against anyway.
Anyway I cant think of anything more to add for now. Ill keep this updated as we make progress. Heres a few pics for now.
(http://i.imgur.com/BGw3dhyl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/BGw3dhy)
Me working on belt fitment I think.
(http://i.imgur.com/bpCbLBnl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/bpCbLBn)
(http://i.imgur.com/d1UIKsM.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d1UIKsM)
The pickup coil after being rewired.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZj7Ckckf9w
The first start.
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Oh, and I guess I have a first question. Since we found our car seems to have the FJ1200 TCI vs the XJ, and from what I can see the XJ has a vacuum sensor, are we going to be making less power with this TCI? I assume the XJ TCI uses the vacuum input to gauge engine load and therefore control timing advance.
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Just unplug the vacuum hose to the sensor and plug it
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Tyson,
Unfortunately I hold the title for the longest running project thread. :-[
You guys at least have a good platform to start with. I started with an idea and a pile of tubing. :o
Years of research, and a lot of GREAT folks here on this site and a few others; I am finally starting to see the project come to fruitation.
As I previously posted, Congratulations on getting it fired up! I'll have to check out your video.
Don't take any chances on the brakes. Rebuild them! Clean and grease up the wheel bearings. These can be done for cheap!!! I paid like $26.00 for new wheel bearing sets from Jim at VMS. Caliper rebuild kits are around $9.00 each. Pads and shoes can be had at local auto parts stores for around $50.00.
We have several dealers here on the site that are very easy to deal with.
As for the rear end: You are not going to want a locked rear end for autocrossing. A limited slip is the way to go. They are pricey IF you can find them. An open rear end may be your best bet, and the cheapest route to go. Perhaps a local wreking yard, or racer, would help your cause.
May not be such a big deal to you guys right now; But having to run against modified Corvettes and the likes isn't a lot of fun. True, that everyone runs against the clock and not heads up racing. Saves a ton of money on beat up equipment! But it is nicer to compete with other cars that are a little more comparable. Legends and Dwarf Cars are now allowed to run in F/M.
On your tire deal: Free tires are cool, but the 15" wheels and tires are going to change your gearing situation. I am using the old BFG tires. They can be had anywhere from free to cheap! SCCA only allows a few tires for these cars. The ones you mention are not them.
As far as people at school wanting to run autocross, they can run dang near anything! Those that don't have cars with them at school; I think your program will be a good experience for them to get into racing.
I sent a few messages along, and hope they will help you. I look forward to watching the progress on the car and your team efforts.
Best Wishes,
Steve
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Do you have 13" wheels? We have 15 13" dot street tires that we where running on our mini stock some of them are new and the used ones aren't hurt at all we will take 200 for all 15 if your interested.
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OR... You could donate them to their efforts and take a tax write off.
:)
Steve
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Do you have 13" wheels? We have 15 13" dot street tires that we where running on our mini stock some of them are new and the used ones aren't hurt at all we will take 200 for all 15 if your interested.
Where are you located? We don't really have the cash for that right now but a would be interested in the future. That many 13s would last us for a while.
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I wouldn't mind helping them out but I don't own the tires the guys I've been driving for do. But we're in athens ga. Will cut bfgs work on a road coarse?
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As these courses tend to be set up in parking lots, old air strips and the likes; Cut tires likely won't help. Could be wrong.
The ones I got from Tony were siped, not cut.
Don't see why you couldn't get through a season (or two) with a good set and a spare or two.
Steve
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I really can't help out as much since I've never auto crossed before, but I have road raced. However you might want to look into getting a set of road course cut tires. I'd think you would want to run something similar to a road course set up and tire.
Dan
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Dan,
Somewhat similar, but not usually run at a track. Parking lots are the norm. Flat, flat, flat!!!
Speeds don't get near what they run on a road course either.
Steve
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Don't you have back up in autocross? I did some in San Antonio in the mid 80's and there at least 2 places where you come to stop back up into section and rsumes in another direction. '78' 280Z.
Robert
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Not in any of the courses I have run. Some pretty tight turns and a lot of shifting.
I'm very curious to see how these cars work for autocross. I know of a couple members that use their legends cars for autocross.
Steve
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There are reverse add on kits you can put on Legends, I've been told
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Ive seen buggy guys use a starter motor and ring gear, or chain cases from snowmobiles. There are some kits available, but they are VERY pricey!!! The kits I know of seem to come with mixed reviews. :-\
Steve
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Yeah the events we would be running will not have reverse sections in them unless we really really screw up. Putting a car in revers is an automatic DNF in our region. As for tires, we really need a few more weeks until we worry about it. We have to get the car running strong and our first event is still a month out at best. Concentrations are on getting together as a team to go work on the car. As for tires, there are literally no other cars in the class our car would be in in our region so we would just be running to learn and beat our own times. Being that we dont have to be competitive that really loosens our requirements for tires in the like. We dont really care how cut they are.
Heres some of my videos from different autocrosses around our region to give you an idea of what we would be doing. My car is a 95 Miata, so about same HP as our legends car but the miata weighs about 1000lbs more. Forgive my driving. These were my first events driving. Im pretty ok these days.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6fWTESJRl8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcjmGvSWeVc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BcZPCVzwEE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OS7lHdsuuM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V7dI0r4SqU
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If you are interested, I will enroll you guys in the VMS Motorsports Factory Backed program at no charge to help you out a bit, saves 10% off parts and gets you entered into monthly drawings for parts, tools, and accessories
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If you are interested, I will enroll you guys in the VMS Motorsports Factory Backed program at no charge to help you out a bit, saves 10% off parts and gets you entered into monthly drawings for parts, tools, and accessories
That would be pretty cool. If you could PM me to let me know anything I need to do I would appreciate it.
So second bit of news. We did a little work on the car. Mounted a miata battery, put brake fluid in, started cleaning the body and decided to take it for a quick drive. All seemed well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdSSa4zQAXM
Clearly we need to rebuild front calipers, the parts are coming in tuesday. But shortly after this a strange sound started coming from the transmission.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZjtCi1DJFY
Any idea what this sound is?
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Here is another person who works on the car. I have an idea on the problem but wont say till other people chime in.
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Also, note for the sound above: The sound STARTED when the clutch pedal was depressed, but DID NOT stop when the pedal was released.
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So project has been moving slow last week due to many of us having test and the like. Today we went out to rebuild our brake calipers. Found an interesting surprise, we have different size calipers. Im not super clear on which caliper we have on which side, but one fits our rebuild kit, one does not. I think our current plan of action is to try to find and buy a caliper of the size that fits our rebuild kits. That way they all match. Ill have to get "96Formula6spd" to post what they are. I havent been very involved in the brakes.
Future plans: Wednesday we are going to sync the carbs. I dont know if we are going to tare them down at all to see if they need cleaning. If that doesnt fix our sound then we will be taking the clutch out as well.
Ill post some photos later today when I get more free time.
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Here are some brake tidbits that were posted in another thread:
It will say if its a 2" or 2 1/8" on the caliper casting itself, that should narrow it down some for you.
A couple of Raybestos Numbers; (Calipers)
76-79 Celica 2 1/8" Left; RWC45519 - Right; RWC45518
74-75 Celica 2" Left; RWC45517 - Right; RWC45516
Steve
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Some photos from the little work we did monday. Will be going back wednesday to sync the carbs and pull the clutch.
(http://i.imgur.com/SmtWYoJl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/SmtWYoJ)
(http://i.imgur.com/ST0fjfcl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ST0fjfc)
(http://i.imgur.com/mv3YpTgl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/mv3YpTg)
(http://i.imgur.com/723mGaql.jpg) (http://imgur.com/723mGaq)
(http://i.imgur.com/J8ArSo0l.jpg) (http://imgur.com/J8ArSo0)
(http://i.imgur.com/NHfF5Lgl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/NHfF5Lg)
(http://i.imgur.com/d1vOadkl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d1vOadk)
(http://i.imgur.com/V2o8JuFl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/V2o8JuF)
(http://i.imgur.com/PEbXhFll.jpg) (http://imgur.com/PEbXhFl)
(http://i.imgur.com/sNSyhYOl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/sNSyhYO)
(http://i.imgur.com/jJny9eGl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/jJny9eG)
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Tyson,
Nice photo update. Thanks for posting!
Looks like you have some other interesting projects going on in the shop. :)
Steve
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Yeah the guy who is helping us out has some cool toys.
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We went and opened up the clutch today to see if its was the source of the rattling sound. It looked very new and clean, no clutch residue evident, and the basket looked fine. The rattle sound is still there, but we plan to sync the carbs which should smooth the idle a little and hopefully reduce the sound.
(http://i.imgur.com/DitWc6c.jpg) (http://imgur.com/DitWc6c)
(http://i.imgur.com/ohsdPbP.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ohsdPbP)
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Make sure you straighten out the rack plate and check it for cracks at the 90* bend.
That thing is bent way up on the left side.
Randy - RPM
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Make sure you straighten out the rack plate and check it for cracks at the 90* bend.
That thing is bent way up on the left side.
Randy - RPM
Sorry, would you mind explaining a little? Pardon the ignorance, very new to the motorcycle engine/transmission/clutch world.
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Schuyler,
Randy is talking about the plate that your steering rack bolts to.
USLC now has a 1/4" thick plate available for about $8.00. A much sturdier piece!
Steve
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Schuyler,
Randy is talking about the plate that your steering rack bolts to.
USLC now has a 1/4" thick plate available for about $8.00. A much sturdier piece!
Steve
Oh okay! We're going tomorrow to look at the car. I'll be sure to check it for cracks, and maybe have Tyson snap a few close up pictures of it.
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Havent really made an update in a while. Not a whole lot has changed. We went out to tune the carbs but as we let it get nice and warm it started to run fine. I think at some later point we will open up the carbs and clean the jets but for now it seems to run well enough for our first autocross though we may get new spark plugs first. We have the body getting painted now. Steve Fricker of St. Andrews Express Body Shop is doing it for us free. Hes really a good guy (I bought my current car from him) and if your in the Columbia area you should consider giving him your business. We also have purchased 3 15x6 steel wheels for our car, though we will need about 1" spacers and new studs to prevent suspension rubbing the tires.
(http://i.imgur.com/xBOBwaFl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/xBOBwaF)
This is one of the factory tires and wheels next to a 15" wheel with a Hoosier SM6 mounted.
(http://i.imgur.com/rWeDxSbl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/rWeDxSb)
Our super sweet Nissan steelie mounted up.
(http://i.imgur.com/FiXUFaul.jpg) (http://imgur.com/FiXUFau)
(http://i.imgur.com/QG6N3B0l.jpg) (http://imgur.com/QG6N3B0)
(http://i.imgur.com/dd7xRj3l.jpg) (http://imgur.com/dd7xRj3)
(http://i.imgur.com/TQAtIlvl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/TQAtIlv)
(http://i.imgur.com/yxml5HMl.jpg) (http://imgur.com/yxml5HM)
(http://i.imgur.com/3bBqBdql.jpg) (http://imgur.com/3bBqBdq)
The above is the body prep work and then the freshly pained metal trip parts. We will also be cleaning the frame and bucket soon as the first time we drove it was in the mud and its now a total mess.
In other news our budget has moved passed shoe string. The club has no funds so we should probably start looking for sponsors haha. Any way all we need to run right now is a new axle castle nut, a new caliper, some longer studs and two 1" spacers, and one more 15" wheel. We all chip in a little and it works, everything is relatively cheap that we need.
The caliper we will be ordering monday or tuesday. The longer stud situation we are looking at a couple of options. My brother changed the studs on his Subaru recently, so we will see if his old studs will fit. If that doesnt work then we will see if miata studs fit, we have a good supply of those. If that fails then we will get cheap NAPA or Autozone ones. As for the last 15" we hope to scour Pull a Part again next week to find one more.
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Looking and sounding like the body and paint are comming along.
Glad you found a sponsor for your paint! ;)
I still debate the 15" wheels. Not that they can't work... But you are going to change the ride heights and gearing.
Steve
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Looking and sounding like the body and paint are comming along.
Glad you found a sponsor for your paint! ;)
I still debate the 15" wheels. Not that they can't work... But you are going to change the ride heights and gearing.
Steve
I was worried about OD on the 15"s at first, but now I don't feel so bad about them. The diameter difference is pretty small due to the shorter sidewalls on the 15" Hoosiers. On the other hand, the width is an issue. They rub the trailing arm at full lock. If we were looking to run on more than a regional level Id me more worried about it. The car will likely be running SCCA A-Mod class, and in our region no one has seen a legends car run autocross and we only have one or two A-Mod cars turn up a season. So we will mostly be running against each other. If we decide to compete on a larger scale then hopefully we will have the funding to buy 13" tires and run closer to a stock class. It will cost us $40 to get 4 15" wheels and tires will be free, so for now its kind of one of the few options.
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Got a machine shop at school?
Perhaps they could machine you some spacers/ wheel adapters. :-\
I see the difference in tire heights. You might be able to make that work.
Grill and nerf bars look good!
I would replace spark plugs and still sync carbs.
Did you bump the idle up?
Steve
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Got a machine shop at school?
Perhaps they could machine you some spacers/ wheel adapters. :-\
I see the difference in tire heights. You might be able to make that work.
Grill and nerf bars look good!
I would replace spark plugs and still sync carbs.
Did you bump the idle up?
Steve
We do have a meachine shop at school, though we have a lathe and 3 axis mill in this shop so I'm not sure what we couldn't make where the car is. I also have a friend in industry with a water jet, Ill probably just send him a CAD file and ask him to cut us two. It would have been awesome to find 0 offset wheels, but we couldn't do that at $10 a wheel.
We are replacing plugs for sure, and I fully intend for us to sync the carbs. Further more, Id like us to clean the jets and everything. After all it has been sitting for a while. The idle sped up as we let the motor warm up and then rev it out a bit when it was warm. We did also adjust up the idle a little. I think jhidde has some video of the last time we ran it now that it has the higher smoother idle.
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Do you still have your noise issue, or has it smoothed out since warming the car up and turning up the idle a bit?
Wish I had some of the resources you have available ! :)
Steve
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The sound has mostly gone a way. We are still waiting for our professor to find his carb sticks. If he cant, we may just build a set.
Right now the car is back from the painters, and we just machined a set of spacers for the wheels to help clearance. The only things we have before the autocross this weekend are new spark plugs and new studs for the wheels. The wheels are getting our used Hoosiers mounted soon as well.
(http://i.imgur.com/rYGLUUK.jpg) (http://imgur.com/rYGLUUK)
Heres the spacer, looks like it will miss the suspension now but will still hit the collector. Not sure what to do about that.
(http://i.imgur.com/GKYFrdo.jpg) (http://imgur.com/GKYFrdo)
(http://i.imgur.com/NNw7Yhu.jpg) (http://imgur.com/NNw7Yhu)
(http://i.imgur.com/fvCLe1B.jpg) (http://imgur.com/fvCLe1B)
This event we will make sound ok (103db). Later events I am worried about (could be as low as 92db if I remember correctly). For those we might cut a hole in the fender and turn the collector up and fap up a slip on muffler.
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Paint turned out very nice!!!
Not sure what to tell you on the tire issue. I am still not keen on using the 15" wheels. Gotta do what you gotta do.
The spacers turned out nice. Kudos to the machine shop!
Muffler... Just find one that will work for the 92 db level and work with that.
Lookin' Good Guys!!!
Let us know how the first track tests go.
Steve
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that car looking real sharp...nice job..
joe
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I like the 15's.
I would think there should be less sidewall flex with all the turning done in autocross with the lower profile tire...no?
Can't wait to get the pic's with the VMS Motorsports stickers on it ;D
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Jim,
According to the post, the tires and wheels clear the suspension, but hit the collector on the exhaust.
Steve
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Jim,
According to the post, the tires and wheels clear the suspension, but hit the collector on the exhaust.
Steve
To be clear, we havent seen it rub with the 15s because we havent mounted them with the spacer. There are rub marks on the collector from the 13s though, so we assume that it will be as bad or worse with the 15s.
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To be clear, we havent seen it rub with the 15s because we havent mounted them with the spacer. There are rub marks on the collector from the 13s though, so we assume that it will be as bad or worse with the 15s.
[/quote]
The 15" tires are a little taller than the 13" tires were. Unless your spacers move the wheel and tire out a fair distance, I wouild think that they would also rub on the collector. This will cause problems in tight turns.
Steve
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Hi Guys,
Any updates for us?
I hope all is going well.
Steve
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Hi Guys,
Any updates for us?
I hope all is going well.
Steve
Things are starting to get hectic as we approach the end of the semester, so the updates may get a little sparse for a little while. Firstly, it poured rain the entire day, so our Hoosiers were already unhappy to begin with. However, things only got worse from there. Brakes went out (if we ever had them?) while our first driver was driving. We haven't gotten a chance to inspect the brakes since then, but I will be sure to post an update once we get back to the shop and take a look at them.
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/208850_478408455545850_2089212800_n.jpg)
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Just a quicky update so we aren't leave you all in the dark. Currently in the middle of finals week, so it will likely be a while before work is done on the car / it is driven again. But, we have determined the master cylinder was bad, and a new one has been ordered. Will post more when we get it/install it/test it.
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Master cylinder should be an easy deal. Hope that gets the brake situation fixed!
Any contact with the other group doing a legends car?
Best Of Wishes On Finals!!!!
Steve
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Some of us did meat with the lead guy from the other group for a few minuets. The semester just ended for most of us. We have been helping out the guy who lets us use his shop and helps us with our car. He just lost his wife so we've been trying to help him with things around the garage. The end of this month we are going to try to crew for his Formula Continental car (the 25th). That same weekend there is an autocross at Carolina Motorsport park we may try to get the Legends car to. Right now we have zero brake pressure at the front but full brake force in the rear. We haven't figured out the issue as it was all hooked up exactly like the old master was (which arguably had zero front pressure). My money is the last time the car was set up the lines were run wrong. Ill have to dig up some diagrams to see.
(http://i.imgur.com/tuRWI41.jpg) (http://imgur.com/tuRWI41)
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Another quick update, hopefully with a better one full of good news and stuffs on the way this weekend. The lines were checked with compressed air, and were clean. Turns out our Rock Auto brake master was, well, a rock auto brake master. We disassembled it and found the washer that was broken. So, another one has been ordered, this time from VMS Motorsports, and will hopefully solve all of our braking problems.
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Welcome Back!
Glad you found the problem. I hope you all had a great summer!
Steve
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Got Brakes?
Steve
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FINALLY, THE UPDATE YOU'VE ALLLLL BEEN WAITING FORRRR:
She runs. She stops. She turns (kind of).
The Legends Car finally made it to it's first autocross. Let's start off with the brakes. We replaced the master with one from VMS Motorsports (marking the third master we've seen in this car), and still, she refuses to stop. Break pads had a ton of metal left. However as it turns out, they were warped. So, $12 at autozones later, the legends car stops, and man does she ever. We packed the car at that evening, and headed to Myrtle Beach, SC at 4am. Five people were driving the car that day.
After an initially look over the car, we noticed something we'd managed to overlook for quite some time. The rear suspension is resting on the frame. No big deal though, we'll just adjust the coil overs and be good to go. Or at least, it should have been that easy. The perch on the coilover was cross threaded. So, the suspension stayed exactly as it was, for fear of breaking the perch in attempts to fixing it, and being dead in the water from the get go. At least this way, the car drove, just had ZERO droop when you turned right. So, we're going to be looking in to backing off the perch and properly threading it, though it may result in us having to find a new shock. We'll know more once we can get back in to the shop.
Problem 2: The shifter really was not our biggest fan that day. We kept running in to issues where the shifter wouldn't move in the direction of first anymore, but the car was still in like third gear. So, the shifter linkage is definitly going to need some of our attention. It was a small track, so once we got the car in to first we just left it there for the remainder of the day.
Other minor problems: The car is running very rich. The carbs definitely need to be taken down and cleaned thoroughly. The car also needs some alignment attention. After noticing the steering snapping a little in the turns, we checked the alignment between runs. TWO DEGREES TOE IN! So, that will also be taken care of before its next even on October 18 (much higher speed course as well). We will also need some sort of muffler. We without a doubt blew the 103dB limit for this course, but luckily we were in an area where it could sort of be ignored.
Now, on to the good. The car has SO much power to give. We were given five runs at the event, and I can't imagine what we could have done with ten. The car had so much more to give. It was an absolute blast. It sure did grab peoples attention. Well, that's all for now! Posted some pictures and a video below for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy!
(Also, VMS we haven't forgotten about getting your stickers on the car. Things just got hectic trying to get the brakes fixed)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mY5lJhJORA
(https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1381821_10153277510770006_923785352_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1150905_624826924214517_600165070_n.jpg)
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Glad to see you guys got the car back up and running. I think the ME department used to race the car against other universities in the ICARA series. I was lucky enough to be the team captain at Old Dominion University but unfortunately we joined after you guys, Duke and NC State had left the series. After the series folded in 2003 we used our legends car to teach labs in the engineering motorsports minor. Sad to say but I think the car now sits in the corner somewhere collecting dust. Wish they would get the car out like you guys are doing. Best of luck to you guys!
Whit
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Thanks Whit!
So, linkage should be fixed, suspension is fixed. Next problem: Noise. We are BLOOWWWINGGGGG away the sound limits. We need to get this car down to around 95dB. Anyone have any tips/suggestions? We currently have two ideas: Somehow making a supertrapp work, and cutting a hole in the fender, and having a vertical, smokestack style motorcycle muffler. We just have to have to cut up our fender....
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Don't cut up the fender. You should be able to fit a muffler that will fit the db level without doing that.
Steve
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You can probably pick up an old collector from before they mandated mufflers for pretty cheap. Put some type of screen and some quality heavy duty steel wool/packing in it...should work I would think. Never tried it though
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I might have one. I'll have to check in the garage.
Steve
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You can email Mike Bliss. He is the guy that designed and manufactured the under running-board suitcase muffler for INEX that has been used successfully here in California where tracks have strict noise requirements.
It requires no modification to the existing exhaust system.
His email is, mbliss@prodigy.net
Randy - RPM
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Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll be working to follow up with all of them over the next couple days. Finances will definitely be a factor, but I think we will probably be looking at not cutting the fenders at this point, and focusing on trying to find other ways to quiet the car.
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Well, the car was supposed to be at a race today, with a total of SIX drivers. Unfortunately, we learned a hard lesson regarding ethanol. At the last race we ran out of gas, and ended up just buying some regular, 93 octane gas containing ethanol. After the race, the car sat for about three weeks, and that was all it took. Car won't even start. An unfortunate ether accident also lead to us burning our air filter (Someone sprayed the air filters in an attempt to start it, and after a few seconds of holding down the starter button, the fluid was ignited) (minor inconvenience). So the current plan is to buy some rebuild kits and rebuild the carburetor and replace the low speed jets (pilot jets?)
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Can anyone tell me what year my motor is based off of the serial #?
4JN-007815
Need to order some carb kits, and am not sure which ones we need to get.
Thanks!
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It shouldn't matter
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I think that is a 600 engine....
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The engine itself doesn't matter, you need to buy carb kits that are for the later model fuel pump version of the bike.
RPM 89-95 Carb Kit (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3Arebuildkit3)
Randy - RPM
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Alrighty. So, looking to:
Completely rebuild carbs
Replace single air filter that caught on fire (possibly both with K&N?)
So, buying 4x these (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3Arebuildkit3)
For the filters, should I buy the
RPM Dual Pod Foam Air Filter (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3ARPMPod)
or
two of the K&N RC-3510s (http://www.knfilters.com/search/dealersearch.aspx?part=RC-3510)
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I'd say get the uni's for what you're using it for.
Just get it all from Randy, great guy
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The engine itself doesn't matter, you need to buy carb kits that are for the later model fuel pump version of the bike.
RPM 89-95 Carb Kit (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3Arebuildkit3)
Randy - RPM
Randy, do you have any idea when you'll have these back in stock?
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Randy, do you have any idea when you'll have these back in stock?
I had twelve of them when I posted them up last week and they all sold. I emailed the supplier yesterday and hope to hear back from him later today with an ETA.
If you click on the link to notify when back ion stock, you will get an email letting you know.
BTW, I would not use a K&N air filter on my lawn mower. They are truly a marketing money maker for the manufacture and all of the K&N dealers, but they are not the best air filter on the market. But hey, if you believe the advertising, "you will gain XYZ horsepower just buy putting them on..."
I am also a K&N dealer, because people have to have them and ask for them by name, but I do not use or recommend them. I recommend what I use and that is the UNI dual element foam filter you have listed, cheaper and a better air filter in this application for sure.
Randy - RPM
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Awesome, thanks. Had already requested notification, so we'll be ordering four carb rebuild sets and a uni filter when they're back in stock. Thanks!
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Randy, do you have any idea when you'll have these back in stock?
I had twelve of them when I posted them up last week and they all sold. I emailed the supplier yesterday and hope to hear back from him later today with an ETA.
If you click on the link to notify when back ion stock, you will get an email letting you know.
BTW, I would not use a K&N air filter on my lawn mower. They are truly a marketing money maker for the manufacture and all of the K&N dealers, but they are not the best air filter on the market. But hey, if you believe the advertising, "you will gain XYZ horsepower just buy putting them on..."
I am also a K&N dealer, because people have to have them and ask for them by name, but I do not use or recommend them. I recommend what I use and that is the UNI dual element foam filter you have listed, cheaper and a better air filter in this application for sure.
Randy - RPM
Unfortunately, USLC has mandated the use of K&N or foam filters only, and most people are not going to run the foam filters on dirt, so we have to use the K&N, they wrote the biggest check to USLC
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Unfortunately, USLC has mandated the use of K&N or foam filters only, and most people are not going to run the foam filters on dirt, so we have to use the K&N, they wrote the biggest check to USLC
Why?
Do you think it does a better job than the foam?
I can tell you from experience it does not.
Randy - RPM
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There is a lot of cars that run dirt in PA that use foam.
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Strictly from a toughness standpoint. I know the filters are crap, that's why I put so much time & money into the R2C deal.
I would think that with the rocks we get kicked up, it would tear the foam up.
I average replacing 2 K&N's a season just because the front one gets all bent up and beat and I get sick of straightening them out every week.
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Strictly from a toughness standpoint.
Jim, we'll talk...
Randy - RPM
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Awesome, thanks. Had already requested notification, so we'll be ordering four carb rebuild sets and a uni filter when they're back in stock. Thanks!
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
The carb rebuild kits will be here on Wednesday, early afternoon.
Randy - RPM
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Do I need to buy filter oil?
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Might as well! I know you didn't run much last year, but why not start with fresh oil and a clean filter as well.
Steve
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Ordered the rebuild kits and a filter, found some filter oil we already have. Will update more after we rebuild the carbs.
We're going to follow some tutorials we've found online, but are there any surprises people typically run in to when rebuilding carbs for the first time that you can forewarn us about? lol
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Clean, Clean, Clean! Then clean some more. Ultrasonic cleaning seems to work best. Be sure to blow out ALL the passages with compressed air.
Other than that; I deffer to the carb Gurus.
Look forward to your updates.
Best Of Luck Guys!!!
Steve
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Thanks Randy, got the kits yesterday. Going to go start the rebuild process here in the next half hour. Will be sure to update, with hopefully good news, after it's done.
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2 Thumbs Up!!!
Steve
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Update as of 9:00pm, came inside for some food and beer, will be heading back into the garage to finish them up later tonight (gotta love a heated garage)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5542/12397956704_dc47a4f40a_o.jpg) (http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5542/12397956704_dc47a4f40a_o.jpg)
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Finished up last night. Put the carbs back on the car, and she fired right up. Warmed up faster than it ever has. There was a slight ticking noise once it warned up, so we didn't run it long in case it was lean and pinging. Idle is also quite high. Overall though, quite pleased with how we left her. Now she just needs to be tuned.
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SWEET!!!
Good job!!!
Be sure to sync the carbs and the normal tune up stuff; I think you will be just fine.
GREAT JOB!!!!
Steve
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Carbs are synced and the idle seems to be sorted out. However, the car is making a loud ticking noise that definitely needs some attention before the car does anything. The motorcycle mechanic that tuned the carbs said he does not believe it is clutch chatter, so, our only next logical guess is to check that the clutch basket is properly secured, and that nothing is loose in there...
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Unfortunately, not here for a good update. Got the basket out, and started playing around with the shifter and shaft. Something is definitely awry with our transmission. The shaft seizes at certain points, and the shifter does not go through all gears reliably. So, I suppose my next update will be when we are taking out the motor and disassembling it...
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Unfortunately, not here for a good update. Got the basket out, and started playing around with the shifter and shaft. Something is definitely awry with our transmission. The shaft seizes at certain points, and the shifter does not go through all gears reliably. So, I suppose my next update will be when we are taking out the motor and disassembling it...
Something to check before you get into the motor tranny area. I had a shifting issue when I first bought my car. It was hanging in gear and inetermttenly not going through the gears. Check for play in the shifter shaft (in and out of the motor). My car had a bent C-clip on the shifter shaft of the motor. It was beveled in a way that alowed the shaft to move in an out. It wasnt that much play but it was enough. When the shaft moved in towards the engine the tranny wouldnt work right, pulled it back towards the firewall (normal postion) it would operate noramly. I found this right before we started pulling the engine out of the car and started pulling the bottom covers off.
Ever since this issue I now run a small 1/4 thick plastic shim between the shifter arm and clutch plate to rellieve and preasure on the C-clip.
Hope Im making sence to you and if Im not I can send you a picture of what Im talking about. Best of luck,
Eric
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Unfortunately, not here for a good update. Got the basket out, and started playing around with the shifter and shaft. Something is definitely awry with our transmission. The shaft seizes at certain points, and the shifter does not go through all gears reliably. So, I suppose my next update will be when we are taking out the motor and disassembling it...
Something to check before you get into the motor tranny area. I had a shifting issue when I first bought my car. It was hanging in gear and inetermttenly not going through the gears. Check for play in the shifter shaft (in and out of the motor). My car had a bent C-clip on the shifter shaft of the motor. It was beveled in a way that alowed the shaft to move in an out. It wasnt that much play but it was enough. When the shaft moved in towards the engine the tranny wouldnt work right, pulled it back towards the firewall (normal postion) it would operate noramly. I found this right before we started pulling the engine out of the car and started pulling the bottom covers off.
Ever since this issue I now run a small 1/4 thick plastic shim between the shifter arm and clutch plate to rellieve and preasure on the C-clip.
Hope Im making sence to you and if Im not I can send you a picture of what Im talking about. Best of luck,
Eric
I'll check that next time I'm at the shop Eric, thanks!