LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
LEGENDS => Engine Care & Tuning => Topic started by: racer48j on September 12, 2008, 12:35:21 am
-
I am looking for some ideas to help reduce the oil temperatures we are seeing at the end of 30/35 lap Main Events (340 + this past weekend). My oil temperature gauge sensor probe is screwed into the remote oil filter adapter at the rear of the engine. I am not sure that is the best location for the sensor, I just copied what the previous owner of the car had done. I have two oil coolers installed in the car, one is an EMPI 96 plate cooler with a 10" puller fan mounted behind it. That cooler is connected at the top to the remote filter adapter at the rear of the engine. The bottom port is connected to the remote oil filter where it eventually passes the oil back to the adapter at the rear of the engine. The other cooler is a small Setrab cooler of the type you see at the 600 site. The two lines from that cooler are piped to the fittings on the oil pan.
I am using the 600 Racing style air box on the header side of the engine to get cooler air from the front of the car to the heads. I have also punched several holes through the front of the fenders to help get more fresh air into the engine compartment. I mounted a vent scoop in the hood to try and direct fresh air to the #3 and #4 cylinder heads. I have seen some folks actually mount a fan in that location of the hood. Not sure if that would be more effective than what I have now.
This week I purchased some Thermo-Tec header wrap and covered as much of the header pipes and Borla muffler as is practical. I added a scoop the the front of the car to help direct air into the smaller Setrab cooler. I have also been running the Alisyn Pro-Drive 21 synthetic oil for the past several races. The oil, although thin as water, seems to work well but my extra engine heat seemed to start showing up about the time I made that switch also. (I previously used Valvoline VR1 20w-50)
Has anyone found any small fans or other methods to help these engines keep their cool on hot Summer days? Is it possible that my oil coolers puller fan is actually a hindrance rather than a help to the oil cooing?
HELP!!! :) Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
-
I would suggest changing your oil as it looks like you have everything else under control. I only have one 12" by 12" cooler, no ducting, wrapping, or scoops and I come in after the race at 260-280. I had oil temp issues but since I switched to Royal Purple 5w-30 XPR my oil temp has gone down 40-50 degrees.
-
Hi Ted,
I know some are using a 3" or 4" brake cooling fan, or bilge pump fan. I see lots of them on eBay for around $20.00. Mounts on the firewall to blow air around the back cylinders. Larger oil coolers might help. I think the header wrap is a good idea. Anything to help keep the heat down in the engine compartment. I would definately change oil.
My .02 FWIW,
Steve
-
I run a 4 inch round blower fan on the fire wall that puts air around the back of the motor. I also made a duct that is about 3 inches round out of flexible intake tubing. This duct or tube is mounted on a custom bracket and hangs out side the hood and above the left fender, but below the hood line. Then the air is “scooped “ and placed between the # 3 and #4 spark plugs.
This made a big diff in the rear head temp. I have run a 25 lap race and had the rear head bolts / nut about the same temp as the front!!!!
I used a black plastic flex intake duct from Autozone that the import boys are using. You can make up something. The rules say no tall scoops on the hood, but you can go out to the side to scoop air and route it to the rear of the head.
I also run a 2 cooler system with a 10 inch cooler fan, and a fender / head light duct that is aimed at the front corner of the jugs.
There is never too much AIR around these motors!!
-
Here are some pics.
Sorry they are so small! Couldn't get them to post any larger.
They are in my photobucket album if anyone wants to check it out.
Steve
-
THANKS for posting the pic, it hard to see but near around the red coils you can see the flex hose duct to the back of the head..
-
Wow, thanks everyone.
I really like the idea for the plastic duct hanging out the side to scoop the air. I have seen those in the auto parts stores and wondered how they might be used for bringing in some extra air. I have seen the 3 and 4 inch bilge/brake duct fans on e-bay also, but I never thought of mounting it directly to the firewall. Another great idea that I can try. The pictures are really appreciated also. The engine is back on the Valvoline VR1 oil right now, but I like the idea of the Royal Purple with the lighter viscosity. That is why I love to read everyone's posts here on the Legends Forum. So much knowledge to pull from. I will let you know after our next race if I have had success getting the temps down. Thanks again for all the help and advice.
Ted
-
Here are some pics.
Sorry they are so small! Couldn't get them to post any larger.
They are in my photobucket album if anyone wants to check it out.
Steve
Hey Steve, Those pics are kind of hard for me to see, how can I view your photobucket album to see bigger pics?
Later,
Al
-
Hi Al,
Sent you an email.
Steve
-
Here is good pic of my air duct.., To mount it i used small round steel and then made tabs that bolt to a header bolt and one to the tin coil mount. Then welded the round bar into a bracket and clamped the duct to it..
-
All I run is the Setrab 3 pass with fan and Amsoil MCF10W40, and Im never over 280 after a 20 lap feature with the cooler packed full of mud
-
the cooler you can keep the back part of the motor the longer you will have compression. Due to the lack of air flow around the back 1/2 of these motor is what kills the rear 2 cylinders. These motors are air cooled not oil cooled get as much air around as you can
-
Hi guys,
Here are a few picts of what I have done so far. Header wrap and a cooling duct to the rear cylinders. Hopefully our new 3" brake duct fan from e-bay will be here in time to install also before we race it this Saturday.
Thanks again,
Ted
-
Hey Ted,
Every little bit will help!
I think the fan will make a big difference. I haven't gotten one yet..... But it is in "The Plan". Dave has a really nice set up between the ducting and the fan.
Have you read about the water cooled engines that are planned for the future? My car (being a Dwarf, Not Legends) I already have water cooled. I'm curious as to where they (INEX) will allow the radiator to be mounted. Also size. Geo and Honda are poular with the Dwarfs. Some do run stock bike radiators.
Would you email me your pics so that I can add them to my album? I'd like to see the full size. justfreaky@bresnan.net I would really appreciate it!
I hope that the extra cooling and the oil change help. Let us know how it works out for you.
Best of Luck,
Steve
-
Hi Steve,
Pictures are on the way! ;D
-
Sorry it has taken me so long to post the results of our cooling efforts from our last race. Fortunately (or unfortunately for our testing) the ambient temperature was much lower at the last race. Even so I noticed our engine not only ran cooler but my son/driver told me the engine was very quick to cool down under yellow flags. As we still haven't added the blower fans (we bought two) to the setup I think we will be in good shape come next season. So I think the change in the engine oil (back to our original Valvoline VR1) combined with your excellent idea for ducting air to the back two cylinders along with wrapping the headers has already helped immensely in getting our temperatures down. Now I can't wait to get those two blower fans on it and try the thing out on a really hot California race day. I think maybe some additional experimentation with Mobil-1 or Castrol synthetic oil may complete the cooling makeover.
Thanks again for all the great ideas. I'm ready for some 50 lappers now!!! :)
-
Ted,
Thanks for the update!
Also, thanks for emailing me your pics. I have them saved on my Photobucket album in case someone else wants to see them.
Steve