LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
Street Legal Legends => General => Topic started by: El Gringo on June 19, 2017, 03:13:04 pm
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OK, I have tags, inspection sticker, insurance, and a very loud car. When the police in Amarillo Texas see my little red rat rod I wont make a block before they have me stopped. The exhaust system might work for racing but I don't think it will work running around town. I have removed the running boards to make it easier to get out of it and I could run a pipe down the side of the frame to the back wheel but where to go from there is a mystery and I don't have any idea where to put another muffler. That Borla Collector is not muffling much noise.
So, if there are any muffler guys out there, could you please take a look at your car and see if you can figure something out.
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My first thought is a motorcycle muffler. Let me think on this for a bit and see what I can come up with.
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Bliss race engineering makes a muffler that attaches to the borla on the car and is mounted under the driver side running board for tracks that have noise restrictions in California. Also the Euro guys run some sort of exhaust system that dumps out from a muffler behind the car. They are also required to run reverse for road racing over there so maybe if someone has some contact info for someone over there they can get you pointed in the right direction
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Thanks Randy, I couldn't find a website for Bliss Engineering. I found a reference to Bliss in Ukiah California, do you think that might be him?
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I've got some contacts with members in the UK and Switzerland. I'll do some asking around.
I don't recall the size of the exhaust at the end of the collector. Don't have mine handy right now.
I did think about something like Super Trapp ($95.00) and tunable. Shorty mufflers ($10.00-$70.00).Or perhaps a exhaust insert/ baffle ($15.00).
???
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My brother (motorcycle/ snowmobile mechanic) suggests that you look into the Super Trapp.
FWIW
Steve
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Thanks Randy, I couldn't find a website for Bliss Engineering. I found a reference to Bliss in Ukiah California, do you think that might be him?
Yes, Mike or Dave Bliss. I don't think they have a website
Randy - RPM
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Mike Bliss has a Facebook page. But nothing for the business.
Bliss Race Engineering
Address
339 Mendocino Dr
Ukiah, California 95482
Phone
(707) 462-9256
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Here is the method I used to turn the exhaust volume down by quite a few decibels. The muffler is an Emco motorcycle muffler and is basically a straight through glasspack design. I bought it on e-bay for $47.00 including shipping. It is a 16" and I wish I had got the 18 or maybe it was 19 inch to get completely past the door
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I think you would be right with a bit longer muffler. Still, it got your decibels down and that will make momma bear happy. lol!
Steve
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I can supply you a 19" for $64.95.
If interested, let me know.
Randy - RPM
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Randy,
I know Dennis is going to need at least one steering arm (Part #32 on the USLC front suspension diagram). He has one that the hole is elongated. Got any good ones laying around the shop?
Steve
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Randy, I think I'll try this one, I haven't burned myself on the turn out yet but it looks like it's just waiting to get me. I bought a perforated guard that clamps on to the pipe that I don't think you can see in the picture.
On the steering arm, it looks like someone has replaced it and the tie rod end with flat bar stock and a Heim joint. It just don't look like the one in the parts list at USL. If I can't figure out what they have done I'll post a picture so you guys can tell me what I need.
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Well it is rusty and crude looking but it is a factory part. I don't know why they are slotted but they are adjusted opposite. I have noticed that if you turn the wheel loose it wants to go round in circles so it probably is for that very thing. I really need a rear end that is not welded or spooled, trying to push that little car to turn around takes two big people. I thought I was about through with this project but it is really going to take a while to get it the way I want it.
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Those arms are slotted to change the ackermann angle. Shorter on 1 side than the other means one wheel steers a few degrees more than the other. On the road you should have them both even.
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Thanks 90Legend, after looking at the part and the positions on my car I had about decided that it needed changed. Do I go all the way forward, or backward?? This car will never be raced while I own it, I'm much to old and have to take three Ibuprofens just to get in and out of it.
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You can run them either forward or backwards. Forward is slightly less available steering angle and backwards is slightly more. Check clearances around your steering arms and that may affect which way you go. Also remember to check/reset your front toe after you change them.
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Thanks again, I wish we had some charts for starting a setup for the various circles, road race, and autocross. When you are where I am, at square one, block one, on the road to Legendville it's like being a left handed spastic spider monkey trying to get to the next limb. There are dozens of choices for every adjustment and no one standing there to tell you which way to go.
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Put the same spring rate across the front & rear. The rate you choose will be based on the ride quality you desire.
What springs do you have now?
I would set the ride heights the same side to side and the rear having a slight rake with you in the car.
Set the front end to:
3* of positive caster
.5* if negative camber
The tie rods should be set as far forward as possible, that will do a couple of things. It will "slow" the steering down for street use and allow the steering rack to turn farther below the tie-rod contacts the shock.
Set the toe at 1/8" - 3/16" out and enjoy.
Randy - RPM
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Thanks Randy, the front springs are LF 175 and RF 171. The 171 might really be a 175. Not easy to read.