LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
LEGENDS => Setup and Handling => Topic started by: VMS Motorsports on July 28, 2009, 09:23:03 am
-
Does anyone have a trick, besides replacing the steering shafts, to elimitate the play at each joint where the bolts secure it? I can move the steering wheel 3 inches to each side without moving the steering gear because of all the slop...I've read somewhere that you shouldn't weld them because it could cause the metal 600 used to become more brittle and subject to breakage, I would think that drilling out to a larger size bolt would also weaken the shaft...any ideas? The previous owner tack welded in a few spots for support. but those are all broken now.
Does anyone know of a splined speering shaft/coupler if I do need to replace , instead of the crude 1920's era bolt through the shaft "technology" used?
-
Mine from 600 had the first two u-joints coming back from the steering rack welded. The only one that has a bolt is the u-joint inside of the car. I would imagine welding those would be safer than having bolts loosen up.
-
They must have changed that recently, when did you get yours? On the website, they show hex or splined u-joints available, but only hex ended shafts, and either way they are bolt-through at the joint.
The bolts are tight, just the holes are worn/widened from years of abuse on the dirt. Is yours splined or hex?
-
I got mine last spring and it is the one from 600. The end u-joint has a spline one one end for the rack, then the other side of it and the next u-joint are smooth and welded on. Below is what I got, but it did not come with the u-joint inside of the car like in the picture. I would weld the bottom two u-joints on. Steering shaft is pretty cheap, so if you want to keep everything bolted as it is now, you can just cut new shaft sections and drill nice new holes in them.
http://store.600racing.com/site/product.cfm?id=20EE4CE6-B0D0-791A-656E35BD4A6DA347&dept_id=622EA116-B0D0-791A-65F4B75395E9C6AB
-
Hmmm. I dont like the bolted crap I have now.
I guess I'll just weld it up for now, and start some research for a new product line. I would really like a splined end/u-joint throughout with a set screw like the shaft to the steering gear...seems strongest/least amount of play, set screw as an added support-vs- just welded or just bolted.
-
Jim,
I just put a new one on two weeks ago and the only splined end was at the rack, the two up from there were welded and the bolt one was the last one inside the car. I suppose to save money you could mig the joints ( a little less stress on the metal than stick welding ? ) you can buy new joints from 600 but you would end up having to cut the shaft too much. The whole new setup from front to back cost about $200.00 so I guess you've got to decide how much your time and aggravation is worth :)
Brett
-
Jim,
I have an upper shaft and u-joint (The piece right after the steering wheel quick release). If you need it, just say the word and I will get it headed your direction.
Steve
-
Thanks Steve, I'll let you know...I'm in brain storming mood, which usually gets expensive to start, but sometimes turns into new product line.
Brett,
Did they give you any options on the shaft when you ordered it? It just doesnt make sense that the would offer a splined U-joint, but not a splined shaft...
http://store.600racing.com/site/product.cfm?id=20EE4F76-B0D0-791A-6518E73C209C71B5&dept_id=622EA116-B0D0-791A-65F4B75395E9C6AB (http://store.600racing.com/site/product.cfm?id=20EE4F76-B0D0-791A-6518E73C209C71B5&dept_id=622EA116-B0D0-791A-65F4B75395E9C6AB)
-
I wonder if that is the u-joint that is just splined on one end for the steering rack.
-
It doesn't look like it. on the full blow-up:
http://store.600racing.com/site/department.cfm?id=622EA116-B0D0-791A-65F4B75395E9C6AB&killnav=yes (http://store.600racing.com/site/department.cfm?id=622EA116-B0D0-791A-65F4B75395E9C6AB&killnav=yes)
...it is the one shown in the drivers compartment, click on it and it shows splined and hex options (more $$ for splined). They dont show one for the bottom shaft to the steering rack, probably because it comes welded on...?
I dont know...guess I'll call Jason tomorrow and find out.
-
Jim, just put a 1/2" to an inch of weld on them. I did that to Grants about a month ago, you wont hurt the u-joints with that little bit of weld. My holes are still slop free but if they do start to get sloppy I will weld it.
-
Jim,
They did not give me any options, they just told me that the only place I could use the splined end was at the rack. But mine were tack welded and I could not get them off. I suppose if yours are only bolted you could replace the u joint but if the bolt hole in the column is worn I don't think you have any other choice but to weld or buy new.
Brett
-
If you want this winter I can replace the section of your steering shaft with the slopped hole.
-
I'm going to weld it today, then hopefully find a splined shaft set-up, since I want to switch to the splined disconnect anyway
-
if the ujoints are still good and you want to take the play out of the bolted section just drill and tap two set screws on the ujoint base tighten to the shaft takes the play right out.
-
I have play in my steering too but can’t seem to find it. I do know that it is not in the box and is in the steering shaft somewhere. Can you guy tell me where you are talking about? I guess I’m not able to follow what and where you are talking about. Thanks
Scott
-
Where my issue is (was, welded tight for now) is with the u-joint in the drivers compartment
-
When I got my car, it was a little play in the two lower u-joints that caused the issue.
Jim,
If you welded the top u-joint on both sides, will you have to cut it if you have to take the steering shaft out?
-
Yep. Thats why I want to go to a splined system all the way through in the off-season. As it is now, the lower 2/3 is welded, so nothing is replaceable there either...bend the 3rd/short shaft to the rack or get some play in the u-joint and you need to replace the lower 2/3 assembly to the tune of $145.00.
I'm envisioning a system where both ends of each shaft are splined, with splined u-joints and a lock bolt (like the joint to the steering gear)...
Anyone foresee a problem with this type of system? You could replace any component seperately, and not need to deal with welding...
-
Jim, I can straighten and or replace that lower section. I had to do that earlier this year after my incident with the wall at Charter. The section under the motor was bent so we pulled it out and straightened it in our press. I replaced all of the shaft tubing this winter since my u-joints were good and I had some bent shaft sections causing tight spots in my steering. I could do that for you as well if needed and it would be $50 or less. Also you can cut those wleds and grind them down while in the car to take it all apart. So dont think its junk now that its welded, I am pretty good with a cutoff wheel and a grinder.
-
Mine's not bent, just trying to think of a different way to do things...
-
The problem with splining is price. To have splined connections your shaft would cost about $300.
-
Oh, well that answers THAT question!
Thanks.
-
Jim,
The splined idea sounds great, but the problem I see is that you would have to find someone to make the shaft pieces to because it comes only one way from 600 ( Surprise !!! )
Brett
-
Well...since nobody is buying houses, I have time on my hands...I'll take the challenge Brett and Jeff. May take awhile, but I'll get someone to do it for me (Brett) for less than $300 (Jeff).
Thanks for giving me something to do!