LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
BANDOLEROS => General => Topic started by: 3nracing97 on April 13, 2009, 08:50:16 am
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Has anyone ever reclipped a Bando? Ours hit the wall hard and demolished the rear clip. The rest of the frame looks ok and looking at the clips 600 sells it doesn't look like I would have to have a jig.
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What does reclipped mean? Juat wondering. ???
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The rear clip is the frame section behind the main part of the cage(behind the drivers compartment). They can be removed and repalced.
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ok is it like a part that looks like a clip and it connects a part of the rear tire?
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The parts circled in red are the front and rear clips.
A picture is worth a thousand words. ;)
Steve
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Kevin,
You might talk to Jeff and see if he can build you a new clip.
The frame in the pic above is listed on racingjunk.com.
Ed (BandoStuff) might be able to help you out also.
Steve
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Here are photos of the clips from 600. I know it sounds crazy but last time I checked the front clip was $350.00 and the rear clip $300.00. When replacing a front clip, only tack weld the round tube where it slips into the square tube. This is designed to "crush" on impact, buckeling the floor asorbing energy.
(http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc357/k52racing/FrontClip12-08.jpg)
(http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc357/k52racing/RearFrameClip.jpg)
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Thanks for the pics and the tip Ed!
Steve
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I think I am going to try and clip it myself. The clip from 600 looks like it will go on without the need for a jig, which was my main concern. Your picture is alot better than the one on 600's website. It looks like the upper round tubes are notched and if they are I know I can clip it myself since the measurements can only go one way. Thanks for all the help.
Kevin
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Just be sure you get them straight and square.
Steve
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How's the reclip going?
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Waiting for the clip to get here, will probably be here monday. It couldn't have come at a better time though, we have a week off after this week and it looks like a wash out this week!! Hows your car coming?
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I got the clip in friday and I started the project today about 11:00 and had it welded in by 4:00. I could have been done faster but I decided to replace the front frame horns while I was fixing stuff and I also went inside for lunch for a while. I am going to post how I did this and a few pics.
I already had the body removed and all the parts in the rear area earlier in the week so I could see what all I needed and order parts.
This is what I started out with.
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I measured where the square tubing was located on the bottom frame. Make sure and grind down the welds and use a square to scribe lines on the frame to help locate the square tubing. The upper bars can only go on one way. I used a torch and cut the floor from the square tubing I was going to cut out. You can use a grider and cut the welds on the floor and pull it away but cutting it looked alot easier and I don't expect this to be the last time I will ever reclip one of these things!
I used the torch and cut the tubes. Make sure and do this on the side you are cutting off ( I know this is obvious but it is easy to screw up, Trust me) and be carful not to burn through the good bars. You can use a saw for this also. Now for the real fun part, all the grinding. Grind off all that is left of the old bars. There are 2 bars that run down the center of the frame at the bottom that you need to be carefull with. I ground down all the welds on the top and sides to where I could see a line of where the old square tubing met up with these bars. Take a chisel and split the break to get the piece if steel left off of the old square tubing, this will leave the ends of the tubes open.
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Putting the clip in place was pretty easy. I had to use a porta-power to spread the frame rails apart to get the square tubing part in. The new piece was close to fitting and I only had to spread it apart maybe 1/16". I lined up the scribe marks with the outside of the tubing and made sure everything was flush. I had to grind down one of the bars that runs down the center a little but other than that the bottom fitted real good. I got the top bars where they where flush against the vertical tubes. The tubes are notched so it is easy to put them together. I did have to spread the top bars a little to get them nice and flush but it fit very well. I tacked it all together and checked if everything was level and square. The motor mount is level with the main frame so it is a good place to check.
I finish welded everything and it looks great. Some of the tubes going to the square tubing is not finish welded on the new clip so make sure and weld everything. There are some braces that are not on the new clip that you will have to make. I am going to cut off the braces that run from over the trailing arm pick up points to in front of the motor plate since they are not cut or bent. The bars that run to the main vertical bars are easy to make.
The new clip fits very well which kinda surprised me since this car is 10 years old.
Hope thi helps some people,
Kevin
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Looks good Kevin!
Thanks for the play by play and the pics!!!
Steve
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One last thing, Make sure if you if you order a clip to get them to send the braces that aren't on the clip. It wasn't too bad replacing them but it would be alot easier and quicker if they came with the clip. The picture shows the bars I am talking about.
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I know where I'm taking my bando after a wreck. NIXON'S FRAME SHOP.
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I bet I could do it in a couple hours now!! I figure this won't be the last time I will be doing one of mine since my youngest will be in one for at least 4 years, I just hope this is the last time this year!!
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This should be my final post on this. I got everything back on it and all I have left is to scale the car and set the front end,YEAH!!! I checked everything and it all came out nice and squared up. The rear end is in good alignment with the front so this is definately a job most of us can do, so we can spend our money on other things.
I ended up spending around $900 on this repair but I had to get a bunch of things. I had to get the clip($300) 2 shocks, 1 axle, 2 sprocket holders, 1 rotor, 1 panhard bar, 8 heims, 2 trailing arms, 1 rear sprocket, 1 left hand bearing carrier and I think that was it!!
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I'm sure you were glad they canceled the race last week. Do you think the tech guys at the track have to approve the repairs?
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I could have had the car ready for last week if I had to but I had alot of stuff I needed to throught at the late model so the off week was perfect. I wouldn't think I would have to get approval since it is just like it was before and all the parts were from 600 racing but, I think I will run it through tech first though.
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I would let the tech guys look at it first. And if they say ok . Then they can't come back afterwards saying something different.
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Not entirely true! I love this little blurb from the rulebook:
"No equipment or racecar will be considered as having
been approved by reason of having passed through inspection
“unobserved.†Regardless of a Bandolero Car passing prior
inspections, compliance with all rules must be made at each
post-race inspection."
Granted, I think it wise to have the car inspected prior to entering a race. Let them know that you have re-clipped the car, and that you want to make sure it is within legal specs. Just a CYOA thing.
Just my 2 cents for what it's worth.
Steve
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Wish I had found this post before I made the front snout for my bando, was hell trying to find the right metals. Also found these on the 600 website.
Front snout
http://store.600racing.com/site/product.cfm?id=B03ECC58-B0D0-AA57-01471BF3055B446D&dept_id=257259C0-B0D0-791A-652D69ED415E0335
Rear clip
http://store.600racing.com/site/product.cfm?id=B03ECC39-B0D0-AA57-012DC0AF8FED928B&dept_id=257259C0-B0D0-791A-652D69ED415E0335
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I am working on a step by step for doing the front clip (snout). I posted picks with some captions on my Facebook. Here is the link. Think you have to have a FB account to see it.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30183049&id=1264466515&saved#/album.php?aid=2011001&id=1264466515
I will try to get the step by step up as soon as I can. Anyone has any questions, please feel free to contact me.
Scott