LegendsRacer - Legends & Bandolero Racing Forum
LEGENDS => Engine Care & Tuning => Topic started by: Okiesnake on August 10, 2011, 02:53:47 pm
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I was hoping to hear feedback on head cooling kits. I live in Oklahoma (can you say HOT?) and road course race. I am on a quest to get as much cooling as possible to my engine. I saw this Engine Head Cooling Kit http://www.brgracing.com/ (http://www.brgracing.com/) that looked pretty interesting (http://www.brgracing.com/images/KcPictures/cars/image006.jpg)
HSR has this heat shield air deflector for the carb side of the motor (http://www.hankscottracing.com/images/airdam.JPG) http://www.hankscottracing.com/HSRProducts/index.htm#HeatShield (http://www.hankscottracing.com/HSRProducts/index.htm#HeatShield)
http://www.hankscottracing.com/images/airdam.JPG (http://www.hankscottracing.com/images/airdam.JPG)
And there the dual electric head fans http://gdmracingassemblies.com/motor-cooling-video.html (http://gdmracingassemblies.com/motor-cooling-video.html)
And then there is the engine air duct from 600 http://store.uslegendcars.com/site/product.cfm?id=204DBA8B-B0D0-791A-658DE3EBDE0E8F31&dept_id=4CC0408A-B0D0-791A-65AEA69C4BF104C4 (http://store.uslegendcars.com/site/product.cfm?id=204DBA8B-B0D0-791A-658DE3EBDE0E8F31&dept_id=4CC0408A-B0D0-791A-65AEA69C4BF104C4) (http://store.600racing.com/images/site_images/DSC008791.jpg) that you can use with the bumper duct
On the road course our average speed is arround 75 MPH and therefore I was thinking that the brgracing kit might be more effective that electic head cooling fans. Anyway, I am looking for input. Thanks in advance.
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As the one person on the forum that uses an oil cooler only and no fans, I am not the best one to answer, but just remember that the more electrical draws you put on the system, the less you will have for the ignition system, thats why I dont bother with gauges unless they are mechanical, etc.
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I like that air duct to the head deal..free cool air with a exit where it is needed the most. I made a air scoop/duct to the rear of the head and the back part of the head stayed within a few degrees of the front part....I like this one, I would have put this on my car
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My concern, when you go to the website and see the front view, is that the scoop/NACA duct is so friggin big. Between that and the gigantic oil cooler, there is no air to the front of the motor
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Running on dirt, you won't find any of that junk hanging off of my motor. Increases the probability of something else that can go wrong.
~ Gimpster ~
Absolutely right
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I just use a fan in the front of the motor and one on top. I know that some people think that you can cool these motor to quick. I suppose you could with a bucket of water but it would be hard to cool it down to fast with air. The best thing that you can do is keep these motors cool and get them cooled down after a run. I run a fan on my oil cooler and leave it running after the race and then after a few minutes turn the motor over to move the hot oil out of the motor and move the cooler oil back into the motor. This was some advise that I got from some major motor guys. So far it has worked for me. I did use one of those things that USLC sales and was told to get that off as soon as I could because it hold heat. Hope that helps.
Scott
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Thanks for all the helpful input.
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cylinder head cooling system which is INEX legal.
http://www.youtube.com/user/gdmracing#p/a/u/1/32nW2owpiVE
http://www.youtube.com/user/gdmracing#p/a/u/0/hC1_4IItrVA
http://www.youtube.com/user/gdmracing#p/a/u/2/k1Yp3vSkCcI
If your interested in any of this stuff I can get you in contact with the guy building it.
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Looks alot like Hank Scott's kit.
I still don't think any amount of fans is worth the electrical draw on the ignition system...just my 2 cents
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I think that the system is the same one Hank sells. I am going to try taking the fan off my cooler and just using one brake duct type fan to force air onto the heads. Hoping one fan will not be too much draw on the charging system, and it was only $20. Now for a mount (and free time to actually do it). :-\
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The GDM Fans work!!!
Also sold through Hank Scott ;)
The GDM top end fans and the addition of a 910 dropped my Road "Race" temp in Houston some 45".
30 min race, on slicks, 2.38 mile Road Course, 98' day, I was running 240', while running 1.50.437 laps.
My engine is cooler, it will last longer. (in theory)
Richard Tomlin
H-Town for Houston or Hell either way its hot.
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I like the top one that has "free" cold air. I would not run the big scoop at the front of the hoses, just leave the open hose end. No draw on the ele. and would get a ton of air at speed, more than a fan could produce...
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The GDM Fans work!!!
Also sold through Hank Scott ;)
The GDM top end fans and the addition of a 910 dropped my Road "Race" temp in Houston some 45".
30 min race, on slicks, 2.38 mile Road Course, 98' day, I was running 240', while running 1.50.437 laps.
My engine is cooler, it will last longer. (in theory)
Richard Tomlin
H-Town for Houston or Hell either way its hot.
You are correct, they are GDM fans. Greg is our local tech guy/engine builder. I can't see the draw being bad on the system all of our top cars are running them.
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You're absolutely right Mark, current draw isn't an issue with the fan kits Hank sells. As long as your battery and alternator are working the way they're designed you'll have no issues. Hank Scott Racing/Real Race Cars is the sole US importer for the GDM Racing Assemblies fan kits. Hank has numerous satellite dealers that sell the fans throughout the US. In Canada kits are sold through Legends Cars of Alberta on the Western half and we sell them directly out of GDM Racing Assemblies on the Eastern half. These fans only draw slightly less than 3 amps each. We actually run a 3 fan system on this side (north) of the border. It's made up of the 2 top cylinder head fans and the 1 side cylinder fan. Two years of testing and absolutely no issues reported. Our first US demo. was the top end kit Hank put on Daniel Hemric's /DSR's car for the million. Worked out fine there. Our fan kits are simple and effective. They pop right on and off to make retorquing the head and checking the plugs easy. They are mounted securely enough that they have stayed on in cars that have flipped multiple times. Testing shows that the small current draw is more than offset by the benefits of running the motor cooler. Cooler Legends motors are faster...period. 200 to 240 degrees is optimal. We use the fan kits plus a 910 Setrab oil cooler designated to the overhead oiler, and a 3 port oil filter adapter to all work together to reduce the temp. of the motor. And no, the fan kits don't overcool the head too fast. That's just too funny.
GDM
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I'm curious 4 years later I'm sure a lot of RND has gone into improving head cooling.
Fan Or duct system?
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Your cooler system is key!!!! The fluidyne system (main oil cooler used with the top end cooler- no fan) and the three port filter assembly will cool the oil anywhere. I do like the top end head fan assembly sold by Clegg and others. The ducting and shrouding with inline fans, I do not care for- ineffective and obstructive. Just my opinion!