Author Topic: Engine Temperature  (Read 1768 times)

Offline AllenSpeed

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Engine Temperature
« on: June 26, 2018, 07:53:06 pm »
At the last race one of my Bandos had a 240 degree reading on the oil temp gauge after the main. That seems really HIGH. The other bando was at 180 degrees. What is the max temperature you can reach before damage is done to the engine. What causes an air cooled engine to overheat? I am going to buy a temp gun and get verification that the gauge in the car is correct.  The outside  fins on the heads are clean. Neither car has a vented back panel. Is it legal to cut holes in the back panel over the engine with a hole saw?

Offline 19bando

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Re: Engine Temperature
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2018, 12:12:50 am »
That crazy I don’t even run a temp gauge kids don’t need to look at it In The car there already distracted  it to be honest on temp I’m not sure cause I don’t pay attention to that on we are 105 -113 in temp out side .
Work hard for what you want,ask question till you learn , never done learning in life !

Offline justfreaky

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Re: Engine Temperature
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2018, 06:38:58 am »
I am not sure what normal temps are for Bando engines.
Are the gauges on both cars exactly the same? Are they reading the temp from the same port or place? Electronic gauges seem to have issues with bad readings.

Here is the current rule on bodywork:
 25. PLASTIC AND FIBERGLASS BODYS: All plastic and fiberglass body components must remain within the stock dimensions, thickness, location, and configurations as delivered new by U.S. Legend Cars International and may not be reinforced or intentionally lightened.
Mounting of Components -All plastic and fiberglass body components must be firmly attached to   every Bandolero Car competing in any race. Any Bandolero Car may be black flagged or denied entry to start a race if any of the aforementioned items are not attached unless prior approval is given by the INEX technical inspector.  Intentional removal of un-damaged parts is not permitted.
Dashboards -The hump in the dashboard may be removed and replaced with a flat dashboard as long as the new dashboard is sturdy, strong and properly mounted. The INEX tech inspector has final approval of this modification. Louvered tail sections and kits will be permitted as delivered by USLCI.

So I would say that you CAN NOT cut holes in the tail section. I think that would be construed as intentionally lightening the bodywork. As I am not a Bando guy (just a lowly moderator here on the site); IF USLC offers a louvered rear section that has actual louvers that have the cut outs to vent air, then I see where it might be advantagous to get a louvered rear section. Pardon my ignorance... After reviewing several pictures of the tail section of the Bando cars, I see that they do have an actual louvered rear section.

BUT... If you read down to rule 29:
 29. SCOOPS/DUCTWORK: A maximum of two scoops are permitted on any Bandolero Car. Only one scoop is permitted per side of the car. The scoops must be mounted approximately 14” forward from the center of the rear wheels. The scoops must measure approximately 8 1/2” up from the bottom edge of the body to the top of the scoop. A hose is permitted to be attached to the scoop to assist in the directing of airflow to the brakes or the engine. The hose must be firmly attached to the end of the duct and must be mounted securely, directing air to the brake caliper or the engine only. The permitted hose may not measure any larger than 3” in diameter. Fans may not be placed inside the hose or duct. Any competitor caught directing air to any location other than the brakes or the engine will be disqualified. The scoops may be no larger than the scoop offered by U.S. Legend Cars International. Competitors may not direct air to the air filter box or the carburetor in any way. Securing the hose to the side of the engine shroud is permitted.

This rule allows you to attach a scoop to each side of the car and use hoses to duct the air to cool the engine and brake. I didnt notice that a lot of people were taking advantage of this rule. The cars that I did notice that had them, were using NACA ducts. These are available from most any race shop or catalog, and come in various sizes. I am sure you can easily find them in the size needed.



Better to be hated for who you are, Than to be loved for who you are not.

Offline Legends57x

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Re: Engine Temperature
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2018, 01:28:57 pm »
Although I raced Legends cars the past 7 years, I do know something about air cooled small engines as I work in a Test Lab. I can tell you that I would expect you to see an oil sump temperature of at least 240° F after a good hard race, rather than the 180° temp. The 240° F temp is a normal temp we see in our lab with engines under full load and often higher. If your oil sump temp is approaching 300° F, then you will have a problem as most oils start to break down after that, except for synthetics which can tolerate even higher temps. But I must tell that 95% of the small air cooled engines we sell are recommended to use a base oil rather than synthetics as oil consumption will increase significantly when using a synthetic oil in air cooled engines. I even proved that in my air cooled FJ1200 engine in my Legend car.
In addition, I agree with Steve that you need to check your gauges. If you would like to continue to monitor oil temps, I would suggest purchasing new gauges as they are relatively cheap and used gauges are an unknown. Make sure to locate your temp sensor for both engines at same location in the oil sump.

Good luck and hope this helps!
Mark Ritger
INEX Legends #1x

Offline AllenSpeed

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Re: Engine Temperature
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2018, 05:28:36 am »
I brought my temp gun to the track tonight. Heads were around 190 degrees after the main.