BANDOLEROS > Drivetrain & Gearing
Chain adjustment
bandostuff.com:
I'm sure 600 will not approve any type of tensioner or roller. If you adjust the chain properly, keep it lubed, keep the engine secure and make sure it is aligned, you should have no problems. We have raced 60+ races including 15 road courses withour a single chain or sprocket failure. We do spend a lot of effort on the chain and sprockets. It is the nature of the beast..
The most common problem I see is adjusting the chain to tight. With the driver in the car, car on level ground, the chain should have up and down movement of 3/4".
AllenSpeed:
--- Quote from: justfreaky on April 08, 2008, 03:56:20 am ---Ran across this info awhile back:
http://www.chopperweb.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17620&highlight=Chain+Tensioner
http://www.renold.com/Products/TransmissionChainSprockets/Roll_Ring.asp?MenuLinkID=614&MenuID=39&gclid=CPjo9aCmvo4CFQ4cHgod2AJv0Q
http://www.pobcoplastics.com/snapidle.htm
There is also the skateboard wheel and spring idea that works pretty well.
Just tossin' out some ideas for you Geoff.
Hope that helps!
If not, PM or email. I'll see what else I have on chain tensioners.
Steve
--- End quote ---
Just a heads up. These three links do not work anymore.
justfreaky:
Unfortunately, most of our Bando threads are from years past. :'(
Roughly, 1/2" of play in the chain (top to bottom).
I would likely shoot for somewhere in the 3/8th" range. Just me though.
Steve
AllenSpeed:
Yes, chain tension must have 3/4" to 1" slack. Place your driver in the car and put the wooden wedges underneath BOTH bird cages. Mark the wedges if you desire to make chain adjustments in the future without the driver. When you get the chain where you want it (3/4" to 1" slack), tighten the left side wing bolt until it touches the engine base. Then tighten the nut on the same wing bolt. I would put the driver in the car and remove the wooden wedges, if the chain is still where you want it, then get a white paint pen and mark the threads on the wing bolt right behind the nut. The next time you need to make a chain adjustment you can just crack the nut on the wing bolt then loosen the wing bolt by hand. To put the chain at the same tension just tighten the wing bolt by hand with the nut in its marked place on the threads. The chain tension will be correct, unless you have changed ride height, spring rates, driver's weight, clutch drum(clutch sprocket), axle sprocket (gear), and/or wheel base.
I have noticed that when the chain is too tight the bearings in the clutch drum seize up very quickly. When the chain is too loose the chain eats the teeth off of the clutch drum and the axle gear.
Here is what I have to REMEMBER:
EVER TIME I change the spring rates and/or ride heights.... CHECK THE CHAIN TENSION WITH THE DRIVER!!!!
CraterTater:
Thanks to the magic of internet archive...(just goes to show nothing you post ever really goes away ;D )
Here's the roll ring stuff and the SnapIdle from Pobco:
https://web.archive.org/web/20091107051900/http://www.renold.com/Products/TransmissionChainSprockets/Roll_Ring.asp?MenuLinkID=614&MenuID=39
https://web.archive.org/web/20091012212108/http://www.renold.com/nmsruntime/saveasdialog.asp?lID=553&sID=1895
https://www.roll-ring.com/?lang=en
https://web.archive.org/web/20111115080720/http://pobcoplastics.com/snapidle.htm
May need to cut and paste the address into your browser if the hyperlinks don't work.
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