A softer tire

[Gimpster]

..

[ethan54]

I just mounted 2 of my tires, 3 more to go.....Both duro in right around 65-68, pretty much where my BFG's durometer at. Granted that when we get heat in these tires they'll definately soften up probably in the 50's i would guess. I'm just glad they're not super soft to start so hopefully they'll last the whole season.

[ethan54]

Yes it has a 'USLCI' stamp on the serial # side of the tire

[VMS Motorsports]

I believe they have the INEX logo on them.
Mine are all under 54, so I'll burn them off in a night or 2, then have to fall back on the BFG's for the rest of the season

[ethan54]

Also not real sure why they widened the overall front width to 61"? The only thing i can think of is to give the LF clearance from the header pipes/exhaust. I mounted the tires and put them on the car and the width hardly changed at all.

[VMS Motorsports]

It's an 8" tire versus a 7", which on paper would widen the stance by a 1/2 inch on each side, thus the 1" difference

[ethan54]

Yep, remeasured my car and it widened about an inch. Still have to widen it some more to get to the 61..

[justfreaky]

USLC has already made compensation for the width. They are also making compensations for differences in duro readings to the best of my understanding.
I don't believe that they have put out a tech memo on the site yet. Just going by some of the memo's that have been passed on so far.

Steve

[justfreaky]

Over-all, I think the "new" INEX group is coming through with what they are promising. They have the rulebook out (even though, I think it is not quite complete), Memberships are being processed and mailed out, they came through (however late) with the Z-Max money... Give them a chance do do what they need to do to get their stuff in order. Not going to go rounds. Give them a fair shot at getting things together.

Steve

[justfreaky]

We all know that the Federals would never have been a good dirt tire. I'm saying lighten up on the stuff about INEX and let them try to do their job.
Crying should be directed to the Yahoo Group. No place for it here.

Steven

[ethan54]

Also not real sure why they widened the overall front width to 61"? The only thing i can think of is to give the LF clearance from the header pipes/exhaust. I mounted the tires and put them on the car and the width hardly changed at all.

The extra inch is sweet !! Right front upper control arm, turn the ball joint all the way in and set your caster with the lower ball joint. Set your left side out as far as you can to make the legal width (extra inch is sweet). Jack the front of your car up and see where the ball joint pivots are limiting the left front from allowing the suspension to drop down. Mark that spot on the upper and lower joint pivot stem. Remove them and notch them with a grinder to allow for more movement while installed (suspension drop). This will aid in relieving the body roll from getting interrupted and throwing your set-up into a tail spin when the ball joints bind. The scsnario makes you chase your tail on setup cures if you don't notch the ball joints. That extra inch you extend your left front will make the chassis setup work awesome not only accompanied by more stagger you can run with these tires but help your side bite while running minimal cross. Remember.. loose is fast and if you are turning your steering wheel to the left you are scrubbing off speed.
 Don't worry about making the joints weak by notching them... I did this for a lot of years without failure in that area

~ Gimpster ~
  

So then to get the RF camber where i want it i should adjust the heim on the upper control arm?..unless you mean use the bottom ball joint to set camber instead of caster..

[justfreaky]

Just saying that we all need to give them time to put things in order. However slow; I do think that things are coming around.

Steve

[ethan54]

Suck the right front in all the way that you can... no threads showing on the upper control arm heim end or ball joint... set your camber by turning the lower ball joint out. Set your front wheel stance by adjusting the left front out. Off-setting the front to the left loosens the chassis = quicker. Off-setting the rear to the right loosens the chassis = quicker. Once you find your prefered balance that you like the car to handle you should rock. My legend turned left if I lifted just a little, no input from the steering or throwing the chassis into the corner to force it to turn. I set my chassis so slightly bumping the steering wheel to the right would catch the rear. Key word.. slightly. I had devised different setups for 3/8 and 1/4 mile tracks with different clays or dirt . My preferred cross was 42 percent but on some nights after adjusting and scaling the car the next day, 46 was where we were at. Those were normally dry-slick nights. I imagine with these new tires and stagger they will allow, I would base my cross at 46 to start the night. Also I had different sets of ride height blocks for each track.... change your rake while the car is on the scales and enjoy the learned knowledge. On a given night a ride height change will cure some issues way better than trying to adjust cross

~ Gimp ~

Ok, i'm definitely understanding this now. From what i've read most people say to square the RR with the RF. From what you're saying offsetting the front to the left and keeping the RR out as much as possible will loosen the car. So am i still going to want to pull the LR in as much as possible as long as i stay within the 6" rule and not worry about squaring the RR with the RF?

[ethan54]

Gotcha, thanks for the info. We'll see how it goes