Question on Royal Purple 20w50

[Voodoo]

Does anyone know if there are friction modifiers in it?  The oil I'm talking about is the Royal Purple Synthetic that you can buy at any O'Reilly's

Here's a link: http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/rpmoa.html

[justfreaky]

Try this one:

http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/mcycle.html

Remember that the oil you use needs to be compatible with the wet clutch system. Geoff  is using this in his car. Check the other threads about oil.

Hope that helps,
 
 Steve

[DARK AGE 53]

Does the bottle have a JASO rating,  if not I'd pass.

[RickyBobby]

I ran Royal Purple for the last 3 races of the season.  The temp was down at least 25 degrees.  It worked great.  I would recommend it.

[speedyracing11]

If you look at the amsoil web site you will see the comparison of many oils.I chose the mobil 1 v-twin 20-50.It rates up thare and you can get it at auto zone.It is made for air cooled motors.My 2 cents

[qweedqwag]

The 20-50 does not have modifiers, you will see that more in 5-20 and 10-30 motor oils, what is normally the clue on oil bottles is if they say fuel saving or energy saving, the modifiers are working to create less friction and increase your milage 20-50 will destroy you passengers cars mileage.

[justfreaky]

Yes, Royal Purple uses friction modifiers.
Read the info on their website.

 Steve

[VMS Motorsports]

Heres the link to the Amsoil Motorcycle oil tests referred to above

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

...and remember, if you need Amsoil...just order online and type in 1524615 for your referring dealer #
 
Thanks

Wow, more shameless self promotion...Im so ashamed!

[qweedqwag]

The Max Cycle Oil 20-50 says nothing about friction modifiers here is what it said from the RP website.

Max-Cycle provides unparalleled film strength that is up to 400 percent stronger than the leading synthetic and mineral oils. Its shear stability and oxidation resistance promote greater performance and protection.

Formulated with select synthetic base oils and Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec additive technology, Max-Cycle greatly reduces engine wear — including ring, cylinder and bearing wear. It continuously adheres to metal surfaces, even after shutdown, to provide instant protection at startup until a full fluid film can be established.

Max-Cycle exceeds API / JASO new warranty requirements and is compatible with other mineral and synthetic motor oils. No flushing is necessary prior to use. It’s available in 10W30, 10W40 and 20W50 viscosities.

Its an additive to help the oil cling to metal parts.


Mike
 

[justfreaky]

Hence, a friction modifier.


 Steve

[VMS Motorsports]

Hmmmm, I agree with both of you. It seems to have a friction modifier-type additive in it, which we all know is a no-no, but Royal Purple says it is compatible with a wet-clutch system.  Hmmmmmm...I'll just stick to my Amsoil which contains no friction modifiers and is a buck or so cheaper per quart! If you ask 10 people about 10 oils, you will get 10 different answers, but I think we all agree that lubrication is a top priority. Concerning the Royal Purple, see page 13 of the Amsoil white paper (link above) for the details, or just read the following concerning the metal wear test:

"Interestingly, the SAE 40 oils with the highest and lowest levels of zinc, Maxima Maxum 4 at 2,464 ppm and Lucas High
Performance Motorcycle at 860 ppm, had similar mid-range results. Royal Purple, with an average level of zinc (1,474 ppm)
had the largest wear scar (nearly 55% larger than the next closest wear scar size). Zinc levels for those oils performing the
best, AMSOIL MCF, Mobil 1 MX4T, Motul 300V Sport and Torco T-4SR ranged from 1,061 to 1,762 ppm.
The SAE 50 group showed a similar trend. Golden Spectro 4, with the highest zinc level (2,162 ppm), performed less than
average in the 4-Ball Wear Test, while the Motul 300 V Competition, with one of the lowest zinc levels (1,048 ppm), tied with
AMSOIL MCV and Torco T-4SR with the best test results."

Like I said, everyone likes their thing, and everyones oil is better than everyone elses. Best to be informed and make your own decisions as to what you want to put in your 10,000 rpm $5000+ motor that was not designed to go fast and turn left

[RickyBobby]

I see a lot of promotion of Amsoil on here.  I have had a snowmobile and a sea doo both with destroyed engines after running Amsoil.  Just my thoughts but I won't put it in my Legend as everytime I have seen it there have been problems.

I ran RP for 4 races last year and it worked great.  My oil temp was down 25 degrees.

[justfreaky]

 I'm sure the "Great Oil Debate" will continue for many years to come.
Rule 50 is very specific on what additives are NOT allowed.

50. OIL ADDITIVES: Any competitor caught using any
of the following additives in the engine oil may be banned
from all INEX-sanctioned events: hydrazine, toluene,
dinitrotoluene, dioxane, propylene oxide, nitropropane or
any additives determined by INEX to be hazardous.

 I know some do run Royal Purple. It would be interesting to hear a Tech Persons views as to what oils are "legal".
What constitutes a friction modifier? Is it something added TO the oil, as purchased from the manufacturer?
My thinking is that all synthetic oils use some sort of friction modification or additive.

 And so goes the "Great Oil Debate". 

 Steve

[VMS Motorsports]

Ask 10 people, you'll get 10 answers...

Ricky, sorry 'bout your Amsoil problems. I've had nothing but good luck with it over the years in my street cars (no, not an AMC Gremlin) and thats why I started selling the stuff, and 7 of 10 of the Legends drivers I run with use it too. Of course we also have a guy who runs plain old Valvoline 20-50 and swears by it. Whatever works. My only concern on the Royal Purple is the scarring in the wear test above, although, with my car being Purple next year, maybe I should switch
OOOOOH, Sponsorship $$$

To echo myself in a previous post, Its best to be informed and make your own decision about what you want to use. Its your engine, your investment, your fun time, just do what you think is best for your equipment

[thunder938]

Talk to your engine builder and see what they say to use.  I know that some of the biggest and best builders say to run 20/ 50 gtx and change after 2 races.  Most of the group I run with runs GTX.  I have talked to my builder and wants me to run Penzoil racing 25 / 50 and stated never to put  synthetic oils in.  Another guy in may group has ran this builders motors and oil for 4 or 5 years with no major problems.  The biggest problem was a pulled head stud.  This driver was the tack champ a few years ago too. 

I have also heard that  synthetic oils can not pull heat from the metal as good as reg. oil. Do to this the oil does show a cooler temp, but the metal surface is still HOT.

The bottem line is I am not a oil / metal expert, I  dont know how many here are, just do what you builder tells you he knows more then all of us.....

Dave