I transferred all the information from the How You Doing thread.
Just makes more sense and is easier to follow.
Steve
Not a good night in DE. finished last...........LOL. Went with a new set up and it didn't work
springs where 180 LF 200 RF
150 LR 140 RR
It doesn't work if you were woundering.
to heave up front and to light in the rear.
Scott
What was the cross at? Or tire pressures? Those spring rates almost exact same as mine.
djracing
cross was 47.5 and 12psi on right and 6 on the left. The track was a little bigger than a 1/4 mile and not much banking.
Scott
These aren't exact numbers but my cross is around 52% with 9 - 8psi on the lefts and 13.5psi in rf and somewhere around 11psi in the rr. 1/3 mile track variable banking. I'm able to actually drive off the corners unlike last season where i was just sliding or not getting any forward bite at all.
djracing
Swap the front springs around, 200 left front and 180 on right front.
I only run a 140 on the right rear when the track is heavy. (my body weight is around 155 lbs)
Put the 150 on the right rear and a 175 on the left rear. The characteristics of the 150 spring on the right rear can be altered pending different surfaces by mounting on the outside of the frame rail to soften it up without bottoming out like the 140 will, by moving it inside the fraim rail, better yet, spacer it inward. One degree of shock angle tilt in at the top equals 1 pound of spring rate change. Example, 150 spring leaned in 10 degrees will give you characteristic of a 140 spring, and no bind or bottoming out.
Depending on the track, I run 39 to 45 for cross weight...
Air pressures without a bead lock I don't go under 9 pounds. Seems to be the point where the oustide bead pops if you spin out and have the left sides under 9 pounds. I start each night out with 12 in the right front, 11 in the left rear, 10 left front and 9 left rear. I adjust air pressures according to the track surface once again from those points.
OOPS... I just gave up my base dirt set-up.... Oh well, htere is a lot more I do also...
----- Gimpster -----
Thanks Gimp, I was thginking the same thing about spring changes. I will give it a try. Hope your motor issues clear up.
Scott
With the spring combo I mentioned, on the scales, you can jack up on the left front to simulate cornering. If you have someone spotting for you on the track have them watch how far you are carrying the left bumper off the ground while cornering. Jack the left front up about that much and put your foot on the right rear bumper to simulate near what the car is doing in the corner on that end of the chassis. Watch how your cross changes while doing this. As I mentioned before, I start some of the tracks I run as low as 39 percent cross. The cross tightens up as you go into the corner with that spring combo style I outlined above. Many tracks I will start with 46 percent cross. All depends on the banking. Thing is, do not let off much at all going into the corner when running low cross. The chassis will naturally tighten up under accelleration around the corner. In a decell perspective, the car does just the opposite as what I outlined above, it gets loose on cross weight. once you find your prefered cross for driving in hard, you can pass 2 or 3 cars going into the corners with ease as they are letting off.
Have fun, drive hard !
~~~ Gimpster ~~~
I thought I would add a little bit here since we are on the topic of spring combos. Driver weight has a lot to do with that choice when setting up springs. Myself , normally in around the 175 pound range can make a 140 spring work on the right rear (alsowith the softest of my front springs placed on the right). I prefer the characteristics of the 200 on the left front for it's weight transfer back to the right rear, weather I am running a 142 or a 150. Once again, you may not have success running the bottom with this spring combo. The drawback is that this spring set-up brings along with it negative bite on the rear. It will heat up the right rear awful dang quick on a dry bottom. You have to dip the right rear above the groove a few times or pray for a caution so you can run up through any looseness or mud on the track to cool down the right rear. When the BFG gets hot they suck for bite. That will confuse many as they think they chose the wrong spring combo when in reality it is the right rear getting hot and greasy. Two other drivers out of my shop need different set-ups. A young girl weighing around 120 lbs and an older fellow weighing 210. I have experimented with all realms with them and myself with differrent track placements and driver tecnique over the years. Honestly, I would prefer working with a driver one on one for a set-up. In the end they normally are real close to my prefered set-up once they find how hard they can charge going into the corner and finding the point of cross weight unloading in the corner, not coming off the corner which leaves your car spinning the rears. That is a whole nuther topic though.
Beware... try adjusting cross weight on the scales before trying the newly found spring combos realizing that softer springs are better on the right sides. You will find that with no driver in the car, a 200 pound spring on the left front and dropping to a 135 on the right rear will not yield cross weight adjustment under 44 percent. It will just flatten out and stay there. So don't go crazy buying a bunch of soft springs. Scale and adjust the chassis for cross with the driver in while on the scales. Also jack the left front and bumper and weight down the right rear with them in the car. Adjust the cross up and down a lot to find where or make that sure you do not find the flat spot in cross adjustment. It would not be good finding it at the track while adjusting the car, which will leave you scratching your head thinking the adjustment you just did should have worked.
Dave, my heavier of the drivers will bottom a 140 right rear with a 160 on the left rear. He is my most experienced driver and I keep him depending on the track he runs, around a 25 pound rear spring weight split. I have him on a 150 right rear spring with the shock straight up and a 175 left rear. He can manipulate nearly any line on the track with a 185 right front and 200 left front spring. As I mentioned earlier, if he runs in the corner high and comes down across the bottom of the corner coming off low, the right rear gets warm from running across the packed or rubbered over lines of other classes (normally running across the bottom of the corner). He has to find somewhere to cool the right rear. Cautions are sweet in this case to cruise through the upper unpacked ruff of the track. No cautions, a high line has to be used for 2 to 3 laps to cool the right rear down to allow diving low under traffic coming off the corner, if needed for tire bite to pass once again. So if you are at a track and see one of the drivers running my set-up get up into the slop, they did not error on their line, rather purposely to cool the right rear.
I gotta go for now, phone call about a jacobs ladder issue on a sprint.... later dude !
~ Gimpster ~
